Shopsmith Forums

Does anyone have plans for increasing the size of the table for use with the table saw? I was thinking about something wooden that might fit into the guide slots that would give me a much larger table space. Maybe 3' wide by 2' deep.

If you had the extension tables, two floating tables and 5 foot extension tubes you can have a table up 6 feet wide. http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/table_saw.htm

For outfeed extensions, you an buy one from Shopsmith or see the many posts by Dusty.

Between the two extension tables and the outfeed table and infeed brackets, I have never been challenged by having a saw table for my old Model 500 that is too small. 6' wide by 28" deep has been large enough for any job I have encountered over the past 32 years.

And the newer Model 510s & 520s are even more flexible!

What size table do you envision?

My problem is not the size of the table but rather trying to get it all at the same plane when I have to make a depth of cut adjustment.

Makes me crazy to have to adjust everything up and down when I change the depth of cut a 1/4 inch or so.

Ed,
I'm with you. My table is certainly wide enough with the Jointech added table. But as you so correctly said, drives me nuts changing for depth of cut.
As for depth of the table itself, I used to use roller stands, but now I just turn the shorty that Bill Mayo made for me, 90 deg. to the big 'Smith and use it's saw table and accessory table.

Ed in Tampa wrote:My problem is not the size of the table but rather trying to get it all at the same plane when I have to make a depth of cut adjustment.

Makes me crazy to have to adjust everything up and down when I change the depth of cut a 1/4 inch or so.

I agree that it is a PIA to change depth of cut because the table has to change height and all of the accessory tables have to then be adjusted to match. But by using a drywall T-square, I have found it doesn't take but a moment...certainly less than the much complained about time it takes to mount a SPT.

Ed in Tampa wrote:My problem is not the size of the table but rather trying to get it all at the same plane when I have to make a depth of cut adjustment.

Makes me crazy to have to adjust everything up and down when I change the depth of cut a 1/4 inch or so.

You are kidding!

First of all, if you plan for what you are about to do (in the shop), you will seldom find that you need to readjust the depth of cut.

If you do need to change the depth of cut, just change table height. If your tables are tied together with tubes, remove them and reinsert them after making the change. When doing this sort of work, I do not use the 5' tubes.

If this approach is unacceptable, sell your Mark 5/V and buy a standalone.

I believe I use my Shopsmith as much as anyone on this forum and I just do not see an issue. Yes, I recognize what you are saying but I do not see it as an issue.

Now, if when you are doing this, time is money, ie you are a professional woodworker, I see the issue but the real problem then is that you have not chosen "the right tool for the job". Not very professional.

Having a stand-alone with a pretty large table (Rigid TS-3650) stops most of that concern. My second choice is my old Mark VII with the extension that will mount into the side of the main table and then just goes up and down with it. Still I have others and a small flock of extension tables both narrow and wide. My 510 is a common go-to for sawing if I have some kind of set-up in place on the stand alone. Even going all the way back to my 10-ER I don't really find the table size to be that big of a deal. The extensions at the end work well and if I need support at the front or back or both I have said often that the best support stand for an SS is another SS (or two).
I am pretty quick to make some cuts with a pair of sawhorses and guide for a Skilsaw type saw.
There is yet another method I use often as well but I'm not sure it is safe to mention here... It's called hand tools


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Ed in Tampa wrote:My problem is not the size of the table but rather trying to get it all at the same plane when I have to make a depth of cut adjustment.

Makes me crazy to have to adjust everything up and down when I change the depth of cut a 1/4 inch or so.

Truer words were never spoken.

dusty wrote:You are kidding!

First of all, if you plan for what you are about to do (in the shop), you will seldom find that you need to readjust the depth of cut.

If you do need to change the depth of cut, just change table height. If your tables are tied together with tubes, remove them and reinsert them after making the change. When doing this sort of work, I do not use the 5' tubes.

If this approach is unacceptable, sell your Mark 5/V and buy a standalone.

I believe I use my Shopsmith as much as anyone on this forum and I just do not see an issue. Yes, I recognize what you are saying but I do not see it as an issue.

Now, if when you are doing this, time is money, ie you are a professional woodworker, I see the issue but the real problem then is that you have not chosen "the right tool for the job". Not very professional.

Actually I'm not a professional but far from it. However through the years I have learned if I measure and cut I tend to make mistakes. Even if I do the measure twice cut once thing.

So I like to creep up on things. I cut then I refine the cut and then if needed I refine it more until it is perfect. To do this you have to make adjustments.

Depth of cut adjustments are a real pain particularly if you use an Aux table and fence connector to super stabilize the main table. Of if you need the Aux table and outfeed table because of the size of the work.

Any adjustment can be a walk around loosening, adjusting, tightening, go to the next table loosening, adjusting, tightening, go to the next table etc. Then if I decide the thing looks better with depth of cut 1/16" deeper it is repeat the process. Bothersome!!!!!!

So staying in context with this thread I never have table size problems I can't work around with the SS but it does create adjustment problems.

As far as the wrong tool you are right I would be much better off with a table saw for these type of operations. However space constraints prohibit me from having one. If I ever get a shed to house the lawn equipment my first purchase will be a table saw. This is why I always advise young people just getting into woodworking to consider standalone if they have the room.