Shopsmith Forums

Hi Again,

Wondering if I can use any of the existing paste waxes I have for the way tubes, or must I get Johnson's Original Paste wax?

I mentioned that the lower tubes are painted now, so I will be ready to attack the way tubes this weekend. (See Attached Pic) I was thinking about using my drill motor with a wire brush and wd40 to clean them up, then odorless paint thinner, then this light colored paste wax I have that I have used on furniture before. It is not Johnson's, but comes in a beige can and is some brand from England (I think).

Any thoughts

Edit: One brand is Trewax (that's the one in the beige can, it is clear) and the other brand is Briwax original, which is dark brown in color.

Well, I think you're in the realm of traditional waxes (carnauba and beeswax and the like, along with solvents). So even if you don't like what your results are, the next wax you try can dissolve & displace the first wax you tried. I'm guessing the ones you have aren't quite as "slick" as JPW original, but at least they aren't the silicone-y types of wax which might not be so easily changed.

PS Brown Briwax can really embed a color that stays a long time; you may want to avoid that pigment.

I use minwax finishing paste wax on mine (It's what I have to hand)

Avoid the following
stains and dyes (unless you really want that color)
Silicone. NO silicone in a wood shop it just ruins the wood for applying a finish!! Many automotive "wax" products contain silicone so be very wary of automotive "wax" products.

Another thing to consider is cost. Original Formula JPW (with the red stripe on the can) I believe is the lowest cost and slickest of the waxes generally available. It's less than $10 bucks for a can at the big box stores. ($7.99 at walgreens, $6.97 at Home Depot)

there are 2 reasons to wax metal parts and tools in a woodshop.

Rust inhibition: the wax puts a barrier between the moisture and oxygen in the air and the steel/iron thus reducing (Not completely eliminating) rust formation. If it's wet enough rust can still form.

Lubrication: the wax fills the pores in the metal surface and has a lower coefficient of friction making things slide better.

Wax on!!

dcohenour wrote:Hi Again,

Wondering if I can use any of the existing paste waxes I have for the way tubes, or must I get Johnson's Original Paste wax?

I mentioned that the lower tubes are painted now, so I will be ready to attack the way tubes this weekend. (See Attached Pic) I was thinking about using my drill motor with a wire brush and wd40 to clean them up, then odorless paint thinner, then this light colored paste wax I have that I have used on furniture before. It is not Johnson's, but comes in a beige can and is some brand from England (I think).

Any thoughts

Edit: One brand is Trewax (that's the one in the beige can, it is clear) and the other brand is Briwax original, which is dark brown in color.

I believe that Shopsmith recommends both Johnsons Paste Wax and clear Trewax.

Thanks for the advice. What do you think of the wire brush / wd 40 for the surface rust removal?

I'm headed to Fleet Farm tonight for some tools, so I'll see if they have the Johnson's. It's date night, and I get to buy some tools! Yipee! (What a woman...!)

dcohenour wrote:Thanks for the advice. What do you think of the wire brush / wd 40 for the surface rust removal?

I'm headed to Fleet Farm tonight for some tools, so I'll see if they have the Johnson's. It's date night, and I get to buy some tools! Yipee! (What a woman...!)

Not sure what WD40 brings to the process. It is neither a rust preventer nor a rust remover.

Sounds messy! Liquid and moving wires containing same.

Before going any further, are you aware of the evaporust/potato in a drain tube methods?:)

Based on the photo in the OP. I would skip the wire brush and hit with 320 wet/dry sandpaper.

Your rust really is minimal compared to others.

terrydowning wrote: Original Formula JPW (with the red stripe on the can) I believe is the lowest cost and slickest of the waxes generally available. It's less than $10 bucks for a can at the big box stores. ($7.99 at walgreens, $6.97 at Home Depot)
Wax on!!

20 years ago I bought a can of JPW and 2 cans of automotive Carnuba Wax for $1.00 each on a closeout at an auto parts store because all the new polymer finishes were the in thing. I continued to use the JPW I bought in 1961 until it ran out 4 years ago. Still have a 2 complete cans of carnuba and 3/4 of JPW. Not bad for $3.50 over a lifetime of use. When anything goes on sale think if it is something you could use for something other than it's intent (polishing furniture or a car).

I advised a manager at Goodwill to put a sign above the door(s) on those quadrangle end-tables that read: "Remove the doors and you have the perfect doghouse for a small dog. Compare with the cheap plastic stuff at the local pet store for $99." She did and instead of selling for $10 (or not at all) they are selling for $40 and are sold immediately. Think about what anything can be used for other than what the manufacture intended.

I have a hospital bed table that was thrown away. It makes a perfect and adjustable work table and cut off table. Of course I had to clean it up, sand and paint it and add new castors (total cost about $7 but it has been very useful.

Hey!!!!:eek::mad: That hospital table is Farmer's idea!!!!!:D

I've aquired an electric wheelchair when moving into a new house, pretty beat but still works.

I was thinking of mounting some sort of bench to it and be able to "wheel" it around the shop.

I'd love to hear any other ideas / possibilities!

Sorry just relalized I'm kinda off the original post. Sorry