Thanks, Q! You're on the extreme end of reasonable driving range, but I'll check with the Missus and PM you if it looks like a realistic possibility.roamer46 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 03, 2022 5:35 am BuckeyeDennis, that list perfectly captures almost every one of the low points of my journey. But you forgot the two year-long paperwork SNAFU, where I thought I'd have to give up because the US Coast Guard wouldn't transfer title to me. And there are other tribulations I haven't shared yet, one of which was truly awful. I'll leave that as a tease since I plan to write about the other...stumbles?... before long.
Anyway, thanks for the encouragement. If your calendar is clear in late October and Deale Md is within range, put it tentatively on your calendar!
Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
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- BuckeyeDennis
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Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
With the Fischer Panda generator on the starboard side, I got busy making new vibration-isolated mounts. Once again, my ShopSmith came in very handy on this part of the project. I'd made a set of mounts when I first craned the genset into the boat, but they were too short for what I had in mind now. Instead of being centered over the engine stringers, the new mounts offset the genset so it's further outboard. That creates space for exhaust hose routing, it moves 420 pounds even further starboard (which will help avoid the boat leaning to port), and it'll make the vented loop hose routing cleaner and out of the way. This is good progress toward splashing in October.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: New Mounts for the Panda Genset
Cheers,
Q
Before
After
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: New Mounts for the Panda Genset
Cheers,
Q
Before
After
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
Things are looking very good regarding de-tenting and splashing the boat in October.
I got the waterlift muffler and siphon break installed on the Panda genset. Both items should make the surveyor happy, and a happy surveyor's report will make my insurance company happy, so hopefully they'll authorize splashing the boat in October. There's a lot more going on right now, but by all signs I'm on track to get the bottom wet again within 50 days.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Panda Genset Waterlift Muffler and Siphon Break
Cheers,
Q
I got the waterlift muffler and siphon break installed on the Panda genset. Both items should make the surveyor happy, and a happy surveyor's report will make my insurance company happy, so hopefully they'll authorize splashing the boat in October. There's a lot more going on right now, but by all signs I'm on track to get the bottom wet again within 50 days.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Panda Genset Waterlift Muffler and Siphon Break
Cheers,
Q
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
My boat has cable-drive tachometers that I had restored and converted from gas to diesel RPM range (5,000 max recalibrated to 4,000). The Cummins 6CTA engines I bought also came with tach drives running off the injector pump gear. But when I went to connect the cables to the tach drives, I discovered there was a critical missing part AND the end of the cable core was incompatible with the drive output shaft. I swear, I spent more time trying to find the parts to make it all come together than I did eventually installing them. But I finally got 'em done.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Making the Chris Craft Cable Drive Tachometers Work with Cummins 6-CTAs
Cheers,
Q
Testing the tach drive with a power drill running in the engine room.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Making the Chris Craft Cable Drive Tachometers Work with Cummins 6-CTAs
Cheers,
Q
Testing the tach drive with a power drill running in the engine room.
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
Things are jumping along very well toward splashing the boat in October.
I figured I should hook up the throttle cables, which is easy enough: couple of clips, a few dozen screws holding P-clamps in place, and they're done. But I was cleaning out the garage and found a brand new Accusync twin engine sychronizer sitting on the shelf. I bought it for a 1967 Chris Craft Constellation 52 we used to own, but I never installed it. The 671 Detroit Diesel engines in that boat didn't have a sender or alternator that sent an RPM signal, so I couldn't use the Accusync and it went on the shelf...until recently.
I found the perfect spot to install it in my Roamer, and my Cummins engines (by happy chance) not only have the outputs for cable-drive tachometers like mine, they also have the optional magnetic pickups used for more modern, electronic tachometers. The Accusync can use the signal from the mag pickups to synchronize throttles for both engines.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing Throttle Cables & Accusync Engine Synchronizer
Cheers,
Q
I figured I should hook up the throttle cables, which is easy enough: couple of clips, a few dozen screws holding P-clamps in place, and they're done. But I was cleaning out the garage and found a brand new Accusync twin engine sychronizer sitting on the shelf. I bought it for a 1967 Chris Craft Constellation 52 we used to own, but I never installed it. The 671 Detroit Diesel engines in that boat didn't have a sender or alternator that sent an RPM signal, so I couldn't use the Accusync and it went on the shelf...until recently.
I found the perfect spot to install it in my Roamer, and my Cummins engines (by happy chance) not only have the outputs for cable-drive tachometers like mine, they also have the optional magnetic pickups used for more modern, electronic tachometers. The Accusync can use the signal from the mag pickups to synchronize throttles for both engines.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing Throttle Cables & Accusync Engine Synchronizer
Cheers,
Q
- JPG
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Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
Under educated guess re senders.
Are they magnetic and therefore self "powered".(do not require a power source) Output proportional to mechanical rotation or frequency of signal?(pulses per second...)
Then the signal (two) with a common return makes sense.
Are they magnetic and therefore self "powered".(do not require a power source) Output proportional to mechanical rotation or frequency of signal?(pulses per second...)
Then the signal (two) with a common return makes sense.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
I think you're right, JPG.
But when you say "common return," is that synonymous with "common ground"?
But when you say "common return," is that synonymous with "common ground"?
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34632
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
Yep.
Common ground return.
Common ground return.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
I'm wailing away on the boat and am still optimistic about splashing in October.
To de-tent and splash the boat, it needs to be reasonably weather-proof on the topside and absolutely water-tight on the bottom. One of the things I've been stewing over for years has been what to do about the aft stateroom bilge vents. Chris Craft used flexible hose there to route air to and from the bilge, but the hose didn't last and when it let go it allowed water from rain or washing the boat to seep into the back side of interior plywood panels. After trying one possible solution that I ended up rejecting, I recently decided to fire up my TIG welder and make vent tubes out of aluminum. They turned out pretty good, and will last at least as long as the hull itself.
So that's two water-entry points that have been resolved. And with the vent tubes installed, I can now install the mahogany porthole surrounds and FINALLY install the portholes that have been done and ready to install since 2016!
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Aft Stateroom Vents
Cheers,
Q
Before
After
To de-tent and splash the boat, it needs to be reasonably weather-proof on the topside and absolutely water-tight on the bottom. One of the things I've been stewing over for years has been what to do about the aft stateroom bilge vents. Chris Craft used flexible hose there to route air to and from the bilge, but the hose didn't last and when it let go it allowed water from rain or washing the boat to seep into the back side of interior plywood panels. After trying one possible solution that I ended up rejecting, I recently decided to fire up my TIG welder and make vent tubes out of aluminum. They turned out pretty good, and will last at least as long as the hull itself.
So that's two water-entry points that have been resolved. And with the vent tubes installed, I can now install the mahogany porthole surrounds and FINALLY install the portholes that have been done and ready to install since 2016!
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Aft Stateroom Vents
Cheers,
Q
Before
After
Re: Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit
Man, this is some righteous work going on !!!
Chris
Chris