bye bye speednuts

enyoc · Post by **enyoc** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:00 am

I appreciate speednuts (aka tinnermans)... BUT... they are always dropping off and are hard to find replacements for.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_nut

So I decided to remove them and tap the holes. 1/4" seems like it takes too much aluminum away and my #10 tap doesn't get good purchase on my headstock, YMMV. But, like Goldilocks and porridge: #12x24 was just right.

Problem: Big-L & BORG no longer carry any #12 selection, they go from #10 to 1/4" (conspiracy?) --- so I set up an account at my local FASTENAL and they took great care of me. If you have a Fastenal store nearby, they are good folks to know.

They also hooked me up with a 3/8"x16x1/2" socket cap for my 10E pulley cover.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:48 am

I believe you will find that after tapping holes in the headstock casing for the motor pan and belt housing, The tightening and removal of the screws over time will cause the threads in the aluminum casing to deteriorate quickly causing the threads to fail. The "A" Mark V headstock casings (Greenies) had the #8 sheet metal screws going directly into the casing. I find most of these holes are stripped by the time I see the headstocks. I find if you tighten the spring clip ends using pliers, they will remain firmly attached to the casing. I use a flat blade screwdriver to part the spring clips ends and then drive the spring clips onto the casing. I found switching to using #10 SS sheet metal screws many years ago works really well in the #8 spring clips that Shopsmith uses on the "B" and "C" headstock casings. I convert most "A" headstock casing for using the #8 spring clip and #10 SS sheet metal screws. These SS (stainless steel) screws look really good on the Mark V.

I did a few headstock casings by tapping and using SS heli-coils to prevent thread damage. They worked beautifully but found the time and expense was too costly when the above solution worked well for me.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:32 pm

Sounds like a short term fix, J.C.

I think you will be going back to speed nuts before long.

Bill Mayo's advice is good!!!!

P.S. Ain't is just the Shi*ts when you have these good ideas and no one agrees?

enyoc · Post by **enyoc** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 1:06 pm

it's all good!

luckily tapping to #12 removes very little aluminum and i can always go back to speed nuts

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 1:27 pm

enyoc wrote: it's all good!

luckily tapping to #12 removes very little aluminum and i can always go back to speed nuts

Plan 'C'.

JBWeld kep nuts to the inside of the casting. That is I how I have 'fixed' 'A' headstocks.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 1:55 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Plan 'C'.

JBWeld kep nuts to the inside of the casting. That is I how I have 'fixed' 'A' headstocks.

I went the J.B. Weld route and it's worked great for me so far. The 10/32 machine screws with the 5/32 Allen head are great. No more hunting down a screwdriver. I always know where one of my 5/32 Allen wrenches are.

Discussion in this Thread

Final solution for me on this post

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 3:54 pm

Very clever solution, Terry!!!!:) Sorry! didn't recall your fix!

P.S. Just remembered - Back in the day, when I drove VW's, All bolts (screws if you wish) were attached by nuts welded to the other side. That was a time saving, handy situation.

I used to kid my son when he worked on his old T-Bird about losing or adjusting the speed nuts.

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:01 am

charlese wrote:Very clever solution, Terry!!!!:) Sorry! didn't recall your fix!

P.S. Just remembered - Back in the day, when I drove VW's, All bolts (screws if you wish) were attached by nuts welded to the other side. That was a time saving, handy situation.

I used to kid my son when he worked on his old T-Bird about losing or adjusting the speed nuts.

Hard to picture someone driving a VW giving someone driving a T-Bird a hard time ;-)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:34 am

enyoc wrote:I appreciate speednuts (aka tinnermans)... BUT... they are always dropping off and are hard to find replacements for.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_nut

So I decided to remove them and tap the holes. 1/4" seems like it takes too much aluminum away and my #10 tap doesn't get good purchase on my headstock, YMMV. But, like Goldilocks and porridge: #12x24 was just right.

Problem: Big-L & BORG no longer carry any #12 selection, they go from #10 to 1/4" (conspiracy?) --- so I set up an account at my local FASTENAL and they took great care of me. If you have a Fastenal store nearby, they are good folks to know.

They also hooked me up with a 3/8"x16x1/2" socket cap for my 10E pulley cover.

Tinnermans, properly selected and properly installed, should not be a problem. Good luck with your alternate solution. I hope it all works out well for you.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:04 am

dusty wrote:Tinnermans, properly selected and properly installed, should not be a problem. Good luck with your alternate solution. I hope it all works out well for you.

The 'B' and 'C' castings are dimensioned properly for a specific size tinnerman clip. No such dimensioning was done with the 'A' casting. A 'good' selection of clips is typically not found in a typical bb store nor even good hardware stores.

For the OEM clips that come with a SS 'B/C', as Bill has mentioned, squeezing them can help with retention. I would add to form(bend) the sharp corners in so they 'dig' in. However over tightening the screw will flatten them back.

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bye bye speednuts

bye bye speednuts

Mark V headstock Casing Screws