Shopsmith Forums

I have removed both retaining rings (slinky) but can't get it out of the headstock. Is it just really tight in the headstock? I thought maybe a rubber mallet. Does it come out on the inside of the headstock? Thanks. Last piece to disassemble!

kmerr98277 wrote:I have removed both retaining rings (slinky) but can't get it out of the headstock. Is it just really tight in the headstock? I thought maybe a rubber mallet. Does it come out on the inside of the headstock? Thanks. Last piece to disassemble!

Some people have stated that they loosen the quill retaining set screw so the quill shaft can come out of the drive sleeve drive and ring assembly but still engaged with the quill feed teeth. They rotate the quill shaft slightly to where it does not go into the splines and then they use the quill feed handle to push the drive sleeve out. This has never worked for me with the Poly-V Drive as it destroyed the plastic drive and ring assembly each time when I tried it. It does work for the Gilmer Drives as it metal to metal.

I use a 24" piece of 1/2" rebar with the ridges grinded off. I find I have to use my 4 pd hammer to remove most of the Drive Sleeves. The inner bearing will remain in the casing many times and can be tapped out (same rebar) after removing the Drive Sleeve. I find I always have to replace the Drive Sleeve bearings and I use a higher quality bearing than Shopsmith used for the Poly-V Drives.

billmayo wrote:Some people have stated that they loosen the quill retaining set screw so the quill shaft can come out of the drive sleeve drive and ring assembly but still engaged with the quill feed teeth. They rotate the quill shaft slightly to where it does not go into the splines and then they use the quill feed handle to push the drive sleeve out. This has never worked for me with the Poly-V Drive as it destroyed the plastic drive and ring assembly each time when I tried it. It does work for the Gilmer Drives as it metal to metal.

I use a 24" piece of 1/2" rebar with the ridges grinded off. I find I have to use my 4 pd hammer to remove most of the Drive Sleeves. The inner bearing will remain in the casing many times and can be tapped out (same rebar) after removing the Drive Sleeve. I find I always have to replace the Drive Sleeve bearings and I use a higher quality bearing than Shopsmith used for the Poly-V Drives.

And, that 4# hammer is not rubber, nor a 'dead blow'. However start gentle and sneak up towards brute force until it moves. Do keep the direction on axis!

I am more inclined to use a pipe, but that does not apply force directly to the outer race which is the likely sticky part unless it is a large pipe(2"od).

Yes it exits out the rear.

It may be easier to drive out the rear bearing and shaft by applying force to the shaft from the quill end(one bearing moves at a time as Bill described).

JPG40504 wrote:I am more inclined to use a pipe

Hey me too!!!! Oh wait...you aren't talking about THAT kind of pipe...

finally pounded it out.

kmerr98277 wrote:finally pounded it out.

Do install new bearings!:)

kmerr98277 wrote:finally pounded it out.

Do install new bearings!

Just noticed I cracked the headstock when I was pounding it out. Ahhhhh! It's a 2 inch crack at the top on the inside. Fortunately it doesnt go through to the outside.

kmerr98277 wrote:Just noticed I cracked the headstock when I was pounding it out. Ahhhhh! It's a 2 inch crack at the top on the inside. Fortunately it doesnt go through to the outside.

I do not believe this crack should have any effect on the alignment of the drive sleeve. I find many headstocks will have cracks on the inside and/or outside. As long they do not extend to any edge to where the two halfs of the crack are displaced, I have used the headstock with no problems found later.