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How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

Well Bear, this one is much simpler!:)

Tilt the TABLE to 45°.

Set the miter gauge to 90°(square).

Lay the box side flat on the table with the 'inside' face against the table.

Hold the workpiece against the miter gauge and cut the first end You now have a 45° miter on one end. The second end gets a bit tricky. This time you will be cutting to length. It is best to start a bit long and reposition it to the desired length.

I assume you know how to make the grooves. If not hollar!

P.S. This assumes the miter gauge is to the right of the blade.

Although you are cutting the vertical ends, you are doing so with the workpiece at a 45(table setting).

It seems like you might want to see if anyone is near you and can stop by for a couple of hours and work with you. If someone is near enough and willing you could kick start your project.

Like in this case a miter extension with a stop set would make sure the parts are all the same length. Not only do angles need to be cut at the correct angle but lengths also need to be the same length on matching pieces.

Assembly will also require that the box be assembled square, not a big deal but if you don't make the parts square things are going to go badly fast.

I'd not call this a beginners project, it is more than that, intermediate would be more like it. It certainly will be educational.

Ed

bear1050 wrote:How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

How do you use the Shopsmith table saw to cut 45 degree miter in boards that are 3/4 inch by 11 inch by 24 inch?

Do you have any extra material so you can to some test cuts before you commit to cutting the bigger pieces? Miter two smaller end pieces, maybe 1x4 or better yet 1x6, to verify that when brought together they show a "good" 90 degree outside and inside corner. I'd check both just in case. Sometimes what doesn't show from one perspective does show from the other. Trusting that the table trunnion lock scale is absolutely accurate is probably not a good idea. Using the test pieces will allow you to sneak up on the precise setting.

Best of luck.

Be well,
Ben

Also realize wide boards are not always(ever?) flat.

Step 4(glueup) will not be easy. Do you have clamps?

There are a few tricks that can help, but you will need to a make some things to help the clamping.

Anyone have any pics so I can get an idea for the process

You might want to look at the pictures in the online Power Tool Working For Everyone.

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw_joinery/index.htm

Click on Bevel Cuts and view pictures 3-8 thru 3-10.

3-13 shows what you were trying to do in your earlier post of cutting small angles when the piece is already cut to size. I also recommend Farmer's approach as the first choice though.

bear1050 wrote:Anyone have any pics so I can get an idea for the process

RedLeg gave you a good lead...it will be WELL worth your time to read through the Table Saw chapters in Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone.

A couple of thoughts on cutting a cross bevel...thought #1...I think it is a really good idea to make a zero clearance insert (Google this if you do not know what it be) for 45 degrees to use when making this cut. That will help keep small offcuts from dropping down onto the blade. thought #2...Note that your offcut will be on the uphill side of the blade and may be likely to kick back if not restrained somehow. Ideally the anti-kickback pawls will hold the offcut until the machine stops, but even so, guide the workpiece from a position outside of the "danger zone". Reading through Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone will tell you where the "danger zones" are.

Finally, while thinking about how to restrain the offcut during this kind of cut I remembered that Nick invented something he called the "anti-gravity jig" or something like that that he featured in one of his videos. Maybe someone can find the link to that.

Best of Luck with the project

I have cut miters on a long board by moving the headstock far enough to the right so that I could tilt the table, add an extension table, supported with legs. You have to be careful that the extension table weight does not change the tilt angle so it is best to check.

I usually cut the first angle on each piece that is slightly oversize, then set up the rip fence with a stop block camped to the fence at the proper length for one side to make sure they are the same length. Cut one set of sides using the miter gauge, repeat process for the second set of sides.

Having said all this, I have a devil of a time with box miters no matter small or long they are.

Good luck.

John