I recently used mine and noticed that one of the chippers must be a little longer than the rest. I get a slight groove one one side, so I know which chipper it is. Should I joint/resharpen all of them?
I THINK joint is the correct word there. It's the first step in sharpening a saw blade. It's when you slowly lower your table, that has a bench stone over the saw slot. Just enough for the blade to barely touch the stone, while it's turning.
Dado Saw
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Dado Saw
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- a1gutterman
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Hi beeg,beeg wrote:I recently used mine and noticed that one of the chippers must be a little longer than the rest. I get a slight groove one one side, so I know which chipper it is. Should I joint/resharpen all of them?...........
Could it be possible that your chipper has a little movement on the arbor? If it is a little long on the one end, is it a little short on the other?
Tim
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Hi A1,
HHHHHMMMMM I don't think thats the case. After looking at it again, I noticed that is seems all the chippers are a different length. But it's an acceptable difference. The center chippers leave a slight ridge, easyly sanded off. The two end ones leave a groove. One groove I can feel, the other one I can see. OH and I should say, the table is set at a 10 degree angle too.
HHHHHMMMMM I don't think thats the case. After looking at it again, I noticed that is seems all the chippers are a different length. But it's an acceptable difference. The center chippers leave a slight ridge, easyly sanded off. The two end ones leave a groove. One groove I can feel, the other one I can see. OH and I should say, the table is set at a 10 degree angle too.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
.
.
Bob
When using a chipper set to get even dados you need to match all the chippers to the same length. This can be time consuming and IMHO I'm not sure it is worth the effortor makes that much difference if it only a little bit and it one of the inside chippers. Over the years I have changed to making dados and rabbets using my hand held router or my router table.
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beeg wrote:Hi A1,
HHHHHMMMMM I don't think thats the case. After looking at it again, I noticed that is seems all the chippers are a different length. But it's an acceptable difference. The center chippers leave a slight ridge, easily sanded off. The two end ones leave a groove. One groove I can feel, the other one I can see. OH and I should say, the table is set at a 10 degree angle too.
Until I purchased a very (ridiculous) expensive dado blade, I used a hybrid technique. I use the Shopsmith with a Shopsmith brand dado blade to get close to the correct size, I finish up with a router with a dado clean-out bit that rides on the side of my dado and just cleans out the bottom. This is much quicker than doing the whole thing with a router and having to set up guides for the router to follow.
Here is an example of the bit, I know nothing about this company or this bit, but their image is copyright so this was the best I could do.
http://www.acetoolonline.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CMT-852.503.11B&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC