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I read that the Mark 7 can run on either 110 or 220 simply by changing the plug. Is there an adapter you can use for this or do you have to lop the plug off and physically install a new plug?

ChrisNeilan wrote:I read that the Mark 7 can run on either 110 or 220 simply by changing the plug. Is there an adapter you can use for this or do you have to lop the plug off and physically install a new plug?

Depends upon who you ask.

Yes a 'cheater cord' can be made to adapt the 115v plug to a 230v receptacle, but that is against code.

To stay within the code, the plug must be replaced a 230v plug.

The 'choice' is yours.]absolute[/B] control over its use.

Do not think of connecting to a dryer receptacle.

This is enough info for starters.

Some reading on the subject.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... light=230v

JPG40504 wrote:Depends upon who you ask.

Yes a 'cheater cord' can be made to adapt the 115v plug to a 230v receptacle, but that is against code.

To stay within the code, the plug must be replaced a 230v plug.

The 'choice' is yours.]absolute[/B] control over its use.

Do not think of connecting to a dryer receptacle.

This is enough info for starters.

I can see the issues there! Can imagine someone giving their microwave a boost! I have done virtually all the wiring in my house and am not afraid of the break per box... I have two rooms in my basement for my shop, and only have 220 in one of them. Being lazy I don't want to run new lines for 220. I also don't want to modify a brand new cord on the Mark 7.... Decisions decisions....

I've been running my PowerPro on 110 for over 2 years. There's no electrical issues. I
I've been thinking of running a 220 line across the shop to the PowerPro for at least the last year. (Think - think - think) There's nothing like a little thought:rolleyes:

Still, I want to get to it and make the run just to see if there is any difference. No other reason. If I could think, or be told, of a good reason to make the change, I would, but no such reason yet

When I purchased my Mark 7, I had to run new power in my shop (garage). My garage only had one outlet installed. I added a new 110V circuit and a 220V circuit for the Mark 7 since I was running new circuits anyway. To convert the Mark 7 to 220V, I cut approximately 6-8 inches off the end of the cord, installed a 220V plug, and saved the 110V plug I cut off. I plan on making an adapter out of it to go from 220V to 110V by just adding a 220V receptical to the tail when/if I ever need it.

I had originally thought to leave the cord in tact and make a 110V to 220V adapter. Then my wise father helped me to understand that would be a huge safety risk of someone getting a hold of that and plugging something else into it. I didn't want to cut a brand new cord either, but the task is an easy one and much safer than the alternative.

sapperpete wrote:When I purchased my Mark 7, I had to run new power in my shop (garage). My garage only had one outlet installed. I added a new 110V circuit and a 220V circuit for the Mark 7 since I was running new circuits anyway. To convert the Mark 7 to 220V, I cut approximately 6-8 inches off the end of the cord, installed a 220V plug, and saved the 110V plug I cut off. I plan on making an adapter out of it to go from 220V to 110V by just adding a 220V receptical to the tail when/if I ever need it.

I had originally thought to leave the cord in tact and make a 110V to 220V adapter. Then my wise father helped me to understand that would be a huge safety risk of someone getting a hold of that and plugging something else into it. I didn't want to cut a brand new cord either, but the task is an easy one and much safer than the alternative.

Although the 'risk' is somewhat reduced, it is still a 'cheater' cord. The risk to a 230v appliance running on 115v is less than the reverse, buy still not a good thing for the appliance.

If you do make that adapter, keep absolute control of it! Also do not make it until you have a real need for it. Better yet, only have the cheater cord assembled when you need it and disassemble it afterwards. That prevents 'ignorant' use of it.

I think that is the best 'solution' yet.

Without a well managed method to revert back to a 120V SS power connection, the SS Planer becomes unusable with a 240V plug installed on the SS power cord. In order to use the planer, a 120V SS cord cap must be plugged into the Planer control box, and the planer 120V cord then plugs into the power source.

In order to use 240V supply cord cap to power the SS, without the need for a converter plug assembly, a planer feed motor & motor controller would need to be redesigned for 240V. I see in the on-line catalog

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/planers.htm

that only 110V motors are offered for sale for the planer feed motor & its motor controller.

artlinux wrote:Without a well managed method to revert back to a 120V SS power connection, the SS Planer becomes unusable with a 240V plug installed on the SS power cord. In order to use the planer, a 120V SS cord cap must be plugged into the Planer control box, and the planer 120V cord then plugs into the power source.

In order to use 240V supply cord cap to power the SS, without the need for a converter plug assembly, a planer feed motor & motor controller would need to be redesigned for 240V. I see in the on-line catalog

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/planers.htm

that only 110V motors are offered for sale for the planer feed motor & its motor controller.

Yes this is a reason to not change out the plug, but a reverse cheater cord could be used when the planer is used after the PP 115v plug is replaced with a 230v plug.

We be talking about a ss mounted planer here.

That means the ss is running on 115v fed through the planer safety switch setup(feed speed controller included) and the reverse cheater cord.

BTW the feed motor is DC and the 'control' circuits are usable on 115v only.

I do not think using the Power Pro with the planer safety switch is a good idea anyway. Remember the PP must reboot after power is turned off. Not very handy if the safety switch is used as a 'convenient' power on/off. Ya still gotta go over to the PP control panel each time anyway.

So:

With the PP able to run in reverse, the planer can mount to the right of the headstock and the infeed side of the planer is now on the 'front side' of the SS.

Yes you would have to connect the feed control box to 115v, but not use the power switch to control the SS.

JPG you point about rebooting the SS each time you shut off the SS planer causes a starting delay and reselection of the planer function in the menu is true.

Mounting on the right of the headstock is not a "can" but a "must" if you use the menu to select the planer since reverse direction is a forced setting. I expect that motor conditions are being monitored for that SPT selected in the menu.

Running the SS and the power feed motor with separate power feeds in order to avoid powering the planer through the power feed motor receptacle places a new operating risk on the operator. As unlikely as it may seem to run the power feed motor without the headstock motor could cause damage or injury. Safety is the likely the reason the SS planer is designed with the integrated power feed motor emergency stop switch.

It is disappointing that the mark 7 PowerPro manual does not have a section on planer operation. Mark 7 use with 240V and the SS planer does change their previous safety advice and the lack of attention in the manual is unusual for SS.