Shopsmith Forums

Spotted this ad for a Sawsmith 2000 in Northern Virginia. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ ... 70299.html

You will notice that the extension table, or whatever it is called in Sawsmith 2000 terminology, has its own miter slot. Does anybody know what the manual said this slot was for? I'm trying to figure out why it would be an advantage to put one's miter gauge further away from the blade than the two standard miter slots on the main table.

Pretty rough, broken parts, missing parts and no sign of the fence. Sad to see it like that.

Hi,

The miter slots on the SS 2000 serve two functions:

1. The typical action of sliding the miter gauge in the miter slot to move the wood through the blade (SS 2000 being used in the "table saw" mode).

And,

2. To hold the wood in a fixed position on the table when the saw blade is being pulled toward the operator through the wood (SS 2000 being used to cross cut in the "radial arm saw" mode).

The wood is held in a fixed position by placing a "miter stop" (a T nut with a threaded knob) in the miter slot behind the miter gauge to lock it in position behind the wood and placing a "stop pin" (a T nut with a steel post and a threaded knob) against the wood in a second miter slot either on the main table, or if the work piece is long, the miter slot on the extension table.

Also, it is interesting to note that all the miter slots on the SS 2000 are separate pieces that are attached to the aluminum tables with screws.

Hope this helps,

Dennis

perryobear wrote:Hi,

The miter slots on the SS 2000 serve two functions:

1. The typical action of sliding the miter gauge in the miter slot to move the wood through the blade (SS 2000 being used in the "table saw" mode).

And,

2. To hold the wood in a fixed position on the table when the saw blade is being pulled toward the operator through the wood (SS 2000 being used to cross cut in the "radial arm saw" mode).

The wood is held in a fixed position by placing a "miter stop" (a T nut with a threaded knob) in the miter slot behind the miter gauge to lock it in position behind the wood and placing a "stop pin" (a T nut with a steel post and a threaded knob) against the wood in a second miter slot either on the main table, or if the work piece is long, the miter slot on the extension table.

Also, it is interesting to note that all the miter slots on the SS 2000 are separate pieces that are attached to the aluminum tables with screws.

Hope this helps,

Dennis

Thanks, Dennis. I didn't realize that was how the work piece was secured when pulling the blade through the wood.

Hi Folks,
I believe that was my saw :-) I decided to keep it and try to restore it.
Please excuse my terminology. I do not have a manual or parts list.

The bad:

1.)The "carriage lock thread " that holds the saw in place (not the spinner that locks) but the actual plastic threaded piece that the "pole" goes into and the spinner locks in with force was broken. I "fixed" with JB weld. I am not too comfortable about the fix. i am looking into machinists or maybe it can be 3d printed. dunno..

2.) Miter gauge that came with it is not original. All I see on ebay is for mark v or 510 etc. Are these compatible?

3.) Not sure how the blade guard goes in. (really need a manual)

4.) Excalibur fence needs tweaking is not totally aligned.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Crab

Hi Crab,

First of all welcome to the forum!
There are a few SS 2000 owners on the forum. Some own both SS 2000 and SS Mk5’s (500, 510/520) machines.

Unfortunately the SS 2000 is pretty much an orphan child with little or no support available from Shopsmith at this point in time (But I guess it never hurts to ask, especially for a reprint of the instruction manual.)

The overall design of the original SS 2000 miter gauge assembly is the same as the miter gauge assembly currently is being produced for the SS510 with the exception of the miter bar itself. The SS 2000 miter bar was a bit shorter and lacked the machined slot and tapered set screw feature that the 510's bas has. However the width and thickness of the two bars are the same so a miter gauge assembly made for the SS 510 (with the flat washer on the bottom of bar) can be used on the SS 2000.

The same is true of saw arbors. The 5/8" and 1-1/4" Saw arbors made for the SS 510 (not the SS 500) can be used on the SS 2000. (SS 510 Molder/Dado arbor is a little bit different from the SS 2000's molder/dado arbor and may require some adjustment in the slot location in the table insert on the SS 2000.)

The saw guard is made up of a lower guard that clamps to the motor spindle assembly, and an upper guard/riving knife assembly that slides down into the lower guard and is clamped in place using the riving knife knob located on the lower guard. You might also notice that the anti-kickback cams on the upper guard can be disengaged when using the SS 2000 in the “Radial Arm” mode. So you need to pay attention to the position of the cams when using the SS 2000.

This might be a good point to end this thread and post any additional questions that might come up on a new thread in the Maintenance and Repair section of the forum where it might be better seen by other SS 2000 owners.

Hope this info helps,

Dennis

I was the guy that was emailing with you about your SS 2000... As I cautioned, please be careful with it until you get it properly secured. I'm probably the closest SS 2000 to you. Good luck.

Thanks a lot for the insight. I will re-post as stated.

AlGale, Thanks again for conversing with me.. Sorry I did not sell the saw to you. I was able to fix a few things and get it working. Thanks again for the safety talk. TS's are no joke !!! I am headed over a friends house to get a through safety training with a TS. Cannot loose any fingers. My livelihood depends on it !!! :-)

Crab