Shopsmith Forums

The '84 510 I bought suffered salt water intrusion during a hurricane. Trying to restore for my son-in-law. Having considerable difficulties, for obvious reasons, the main being bimetallic corrosion. Needs a complete tear down for rust removal, painting, renovation.

Trying to remove the tie bar from the way tubes. Used a rubber mallet; no joy. Tried the best penetrating oil I know of; no joy. Tried heat, hoping that the dissimilar metals would expand/contract at different rates and break the bond; no joy. Any ideas on how to remove without breaking it?

The bearings in the quill need to be changed (darnedest thing, a 'clunk' as the shaft rotates, about every 90 degrees) but I can't get the set screw in the knurled ring out to disassemble the quill (actually have a machine shop do it)
Tried the penetrating oil, no luck, don't want to strip the hex like I did on the set screw for one of the band saw mounting tubes. What else can I try?

Appreciate the help from members here, I need to tap into the centuries of accumulated experience.

Salt water + aluminum + ferrous metals?:eek:
For the tie bar if you have removed the set screws try this. Prop the way tubes up and use a block of wood against the tie bar where the tube goes into the tie bar and TAP the tie bar gently. Do not use the block of wood at the center of the tie bar. That would be a sure way to break it. I had set screws on several pieces of SS equipment that were very difficult to remove even after soaking with penetrating oil.
Try cutting a piece of the 5/32" allen wrench about 2" long and put it in the set screw and then use a 1/4" ratchet with a 5/32" socket. Place the socket wrench over the allen wrench and give a sharp rap with your hand to loosen it.
The short stub of the allen wrench transfers more torque to the set screw. The long allen wrench twists too much and you just waste a lot of torque in twisting the wrench.
Bill V