Shopsmith Forums

I am new here, going to buy a 1963 Mark 5 tonight, ran well last fall, sat in owners garage all winter without running it, now when he turns it on the motor just hums.
History, my newphew bought a 1950ish Mark 5 that ran last fall, sat in his garage all winter till a few weeks ago when we brought it into his basement, the first 5-10 times we went to turn it on you had to find a sweet spot on the switch to get it to run, now turns on perfectly.
My question to you is, the one I am going to buy, and since the switch is one of the top 17 things bought. What are the chances it is just the switch????
Thanks, Bob

One thing that can cause that is turning off the machine prior to turning the speed to slow. Messes up things! Try turning the main shaft by hand while setting the speed control to slow. This might help. Always turn the speed control to slow before shutting it off.
Good luck...

Thanks, since I posted this thread found on the 3rd page of threads here the same problem and even title. Seems like it maybe the internal start switch has gotten some depris in it. The last time the guy used it last fall used it as a drill press. I am betting he dislarged some dust/dirt when he went back to horizontal and got in there. After reading the other thread on this I have complete confidence I can remedy this myself for nothing in cost and get the unit much cheaper then he is asking.
It was his dads and wants it gone out of his garage.
Bob

Maybe it just forgot the words?

Blow out the motor, check the contacts.

I am being repetitive, but intend to be 'complete'.

If it hums, the power switch is working.

If it hums the power cord is connected.

If it hums, the internal start switch(or external start relay) is not making contact.

If it hums, the start capacitor may be faulty or disconnected(failure is unlikely, but it can happen).

If it hums the start winding may be 'open'.

If it hums(and will not turn manually) the belt is likely jammed.

If it hums, something attached to the output shafts may be jammed.




The start switch failure is likely caused by crud between the points.

A jammed belt can be caused my moving the SS with it stopped at a high speed setting.

I know I am new here by just a few hours, but have a nice sence of humor!!!!LOL Beeg, "knot" is what you use to tie up your boat or SO, "not" means the opposite!LOL!!!!!
JPG Got it, before going to getit/buy i ran through the threads here, read so much of the same symptom, seen the same cure usually, dirt/dust in the internal contacts and or low temps and gummed up oil from lack of use.
I got this 510 green and silver with a jointer and molding cutters for 150$, I think collor sez 1962ish, but all the paper work stuff inticates late 50s. Where is the serial number located?
Thanks, Bob

I found/got the SS# it is 342816 which according to this site puts it into the 1956-1957 era. and it is a 500. Still think I got a bargain and will do the motor clean up, blowsuck out, darn wish it was the newer 60ish 1 1/8hp but my nephews 1950 ish works great and has plenty of torque compared to some of the cheap individual power tools out there. Now just need to get the band saw!!
Thanks Bob

rbursek wrote:I found/got the SS# it is 342816 which according to this site puts it into the 1956-1957 era. and it is a 500. Still think I got a bargain and will do the motor clean up, blowsuck out, darn wish it was the newer 60ish 1 1/8hp but my nephews 1950 ish works great and has plenty of torque compared to some of the cheap individual power tools out there. Now just need to get the band saw!!
Thanks Bob

Tis a "Mark 5" Greenie. You will find 3/4 hp is quite adequate except for very heavy sawing. Be aware it is a 9 (nine) inch saw design. It will accept a 10" blade, but it cannot be raised fully with the larger blade.

Also realize it is a Gilmer belt version.

Enjoy, and welcome to the forum!

Thanks for the added info JPG. May see if I can modify the TS table/throat plate to accomodate a 10" blade height better if possible.