Shopsmith Forums

Is there any way to adjust the alignment between the spindle and the tailstock on a 10E? When placing the point of a drive center on the spindle next to the point of a dead center in the tailstock, the spindle point is almost 1/8" low, and about 1/16 off to one side.

The MT socket in the tailstock is clean and operating correctly, and the centers all appear to be true.

In the grand scheme of things, how much of a difference does this really make? I'd like to be able to install a 3/4" forstner bit in the tailstock to drill a hole in my turning blank, and then be able to turn that blank unsupported, at least until I can finish it enough to secure it with a live center.

The tailstock has a "floating center" that holds the morse taper center. Loosen the nut on the back side, then you can move that center around to line it up, then tighten it back down. One problem I continually run into though, is tightening the floating center moves it out of alignment, so be aware of that. I'm sure a large washer between the nut and tailstock would help, but I don't have on that fits and haven't bothered to get/make one.

That's got to be one of the improvements made to the 10ER, because the 10E doesn't have that feature. The MT is bored directly in the tailstock.

At this point, I don't know enough about turning to know if that's a problem or not.

Any other possible adjustments I'm missing?

Cavediver wrote:That's got to be one of the improvements made to the 10ER, because the 10E doesn't have that feature. The MT is bored directly in the tailstock.

At this point, I don't know enough about turning to know if that's a problem or not.

Any other possible adjustments I'm missing?

Oh, yeah... I forgot that the 10E didn't have the floating center. I don't know what to tell you, then - regarding alignment or if it's a problem the way it is. Maybe someone else can help.

I used a 10# sledge hammer to adjust mine I don't think it would matter much if you are turning bowls or pens and stuff.

fredsheldon wrote:I used a 10# sledge hammer to adjust mine I don't think it would matter much if you are turning bowls or pens and stuff.

Lol!
Pipes, actually. I need to be able to drill a stepped bowl (2 different forstner bits) and keep the rest of the turning concentric with that hole. Until now I've been boring the hole on a drill press and then putting the block in the lathe chuck, using a large cone-shaped live center to help keep the turnings concentric. I'm hoping to skip the drill press and do it all on the lathe; it'd make life much, much easier.

Just get an ER tailstock off eBay. They're cheap enough.

Check the junction between the tailstock and the way tubes. Also the hinge pins.

Other than that, how good are you at bending CI?:D

heathicus wrote:Just get an ER tailstock off eBay. They're cheap enough.

I wouldn't just get one, I'd get 2, and with the extension table for each, as well.
Put a tailstock and ext table on the head (left) end, for cutting long pieces of plywood.

steve

heathicus wrote:Just get an ER tailstock off eBay. They're cheap enough.

Yeah, that's looking like the best option. I was just checking to make sure I'm not missing some other form of adjustment.

JPG40504 wrote:Other than that, how good are you at bending CI?:D

I'm better at gluing it back together than I am at bending it

skou wrote:I wouldn't just get one, I'd get 2, and with the extension table for each, as well.
Put a tailstock and ext table on the head (left) end, for cutting long pieces of plywood.
steve

Also a wise idea, though I don't see myself using this one as a saw. The whole tilting-table thing gives me the creeps.

Good 'nuff, and thanks for the advise. I'll start hunting one down shortly!