Shopsmith Forums

Can anyone tell from the photo if I need to replace the key on my idler shaft, and whether the clip on the shaft is correct or a user made replacement? Also, can you tell me if I just ruined my bearings?
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The key is bent at the very end. I can't tell if it was bent from force in use or if the bend is there to keep it captured, as the bend makes it impossible for it to slide out (it catches on the notch at the inner end of the key, under the pulley half).

The clip which is still on the shaft is quite different from the other one which is laying removed in the photo, and it is simply wire. It has no real spring to it so when I flexed it off just enough to remove it it stayed unbent. I sanded a tiny bevel on the inner surfaces of the ends to keep it from scratching up the shaft at all and put it back after cleaning up the slot and clip. It sits OK in the shaft but it seems odd that it has no spring. Can't imagine it is a serious issue, just wondering.

Bearings: I thought these were sealed bearings but I'm no longer sure, and may have messed them up. I used a toothbrush dipped in mineral spirits to clean off the shaft. While I didn't soak it or even use much, I can't be sure none wicked in along the shaft into the bearings. They turned very well - like there was no grease - they just kept spinning and spinning when I had the pully on it so I assumed they were in good shape. Now I recall reading that sealed bearings won't spin that freely - I think. Did I mess up any grease in them? What, if anythjing, can I do? They read "New Departure" and "Made in USA" on each end and the shaft is the only part that rotates - no portion of the bearing seen from the outside rotates with the shaft. No inner race that spins with the shaft visible. Sheilded and not sealed?

If finances weren't such a big issue I'd replace all the bearings since it is all apart. As it stands I don't mind taking it apart later if I can save money for more important parts if they aren't toast.

Thank you!
Fitzhugh

Oh, one more question not worth opening another thread for:
Should I give all steel parts a wipedown with an oiled rag and wipe it off, or do anything else to prevent them from rusting? I'm cleaning them with mineral spirits so I think they are left unprotected. Should I wax them? Anything? I see very light surface rust on some parts. I know I want to avoid anything that will collect sawdust or other dirt.

Furniture paste wax, not car wax to prevent rust and after it dries, wipe off the excess so saw dust does not stick to it.

From what I've read, if the bearings spin a long time it is an indication the grease is gone or reduced.

John - I've read that too, but I think it may apply to sealed bearings? Not even sure which these are. Funny, I always assumed bearings should spin as freely as possible. Shows how much I don't know.

RBursek - so wax the internal parts the same as the outside? I have the right wax from waxing handplanes. I use mostly wood planes I've made but can't stand using my few metal planes without waxing them! And from this forum I learned what you said: let it harden and buff. Lasts a LOT longer on the planes than just wiping on and using right away. Must learn to read instructions more...

See this post for a great tutorial on bearing re-lubrication.

fitzhugh wrote:John - I've read that too, but I think it may apply to sealed bearings? Not even sure which these are. Funny, I always assumed bearings should spin as freely as possible. Shows how much I don't know.

RBursek - so wax the internal parts the same as the outside? I have the right wax from waxing handplanes. I use mostly wood planes I've made but can't stand using my few metal planes without waxing them! And from this forum I learned what you said: let it harden and buff. Lasts a LOT longer on the planes than just wiping on and using right away. Must learn to read instructions more...

Shielded will spin easier than sealed, true. Evidently seals have improved a lot in recent years.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Ball-Bearing-Guide-To-Rubber-Seals-Vs-Metal-Shields-/10000000007980758/g.html

Good reference, thanks. That does clear up the difference and I'm pretty sure these are shielded, not sealed. Do you think they must be replaced?

Perhaps I can ask Shopsmith tomorrow. I keep forgetting to call with questions while they are open.

fitzhugh wrote:Good reference, thanks. That does clear up the difference and I'm pretty sure these are shielded, not sealed. Do you think they must be replaced?

Perhaps I can ask Shopsmith tomorrow. I keep forgetting to call with questions while they are open.

Shielded ones have metal sides. Hard to say bearings need replacing without looking, feeling, listening. Do they feel smooth? Any noises when they run at speed? Do you feel any side play when wiggling the outer race? Again, if it is not broken, leave it alone, deal with it when there is an issue.

I just replaced a few bearings, but it was probably overkill on my part. Except for the motor (fan side) bearing, that was making a shrill noise that I could not put up with.

Fitz, I would, nothing to loose if waxed right, but I notice on mine that the shafts have a very good micro finish on them, the more polished a steel is, the smaller the pores and tend not to rust as easily, ohps, JPG may be listening, I need to add, all things being equal in the steel chemistry/composition. I cant see h2o getting in there unless out in the rain or spill your Martini off the support platform or TS table!!! Hate that when it happens.