rcplaneguy
How many of you have more than one sanding disk for other grits? Did you buy new, or used? I'm in the market! Does ShopSmith ever put them on sale? I need the long arbor one, for my 510. Average shipped price on eBay is about $45, new from Shopsmith $67.
reible
In general my idea was to keep a disk with each of the three grits (3) one with Velcro (1) and one for sharpening (1). This seems to work out pretty well.
The Velcro disk of course allows the use of a range of grits but it can not be used for sharpening and it has a tendency to give a less sharp edge. It can never be our only solution if you are a complete woodworker.
You could get by without a sharpening disk or maybe even have two. It is all in the paper and grits and if you ever use the disk for metal.
So far as new/used. My rule for this sort of hardware is to pay no more then half the new price or go for new. This is a personal decision of mine, mostly because I like to have new things rather then an unknown. If it has a problem and is new from shopsmith I know they will be making it right, from someone else well it is toss up.
Conical disks are also great. I have only one but would like to pick up another one for a second grit.
BTW I also have a selection of the drum sanders with different grits....
All of this was some thing I grew into over the years, well before interaction with forums like this. In the good old days everything for the shopsmith came new from them. Retirement and price increases as well as ebay changed things but I still like the idea of new shopsmith things.
Ed
BuckeyeDennis
Yes, you definitely want multiple sanding discs. Trust me, you do NOT want to be changing adhesive discs just to change grits, and I have not heard good things about the Velcro system. I figured that I needed three discs, including the one that came with my used 520, and not counting conical discs.
If you are patient, there is no need to pay an "average" price. I have the "green eyeshade" records to prove it. I enjoy online bargain-hunting, and keep a wishlist spreadsheet with all of my desired goodies handy (in Dropbox). When I score a deal, I record the price paid on the spreadsheet.
I was a bit aggressive at first. Disc #2 cost me $34 on eBay. That doesn't include shipping, but I only bid on eBay items wih reasonable shipping charges. The "mother ship" charges for shipping as well, plus a 7% state tax for us Ohio residents.
By the way, the best bargains on certain items do indeed come direct from the mother ship. Sign up for their email specials, if you haven't already.
Not feeling such a burning need for number 3, I waited for a really good deal. Those do sometimes come up on eBay, on the rare occasions when several sellers list the same item at the same time. Supply actually exceeds demand, and the last few go cheap. Disc number 3 cost me $20.
Of course, shortly after buying #3, a screamin' Craigslist deal on a Pro Planer pops up nearby. Snapped that up, and found that the guy was also asking just $10 for a long-shank steel sanding disc. Hey, if three is good, four must be better!
Which leads us up to my 10ER Craigslist purchase -- an almost embarassingly good deal. It came with a vintage Gerstner tool chest that had belonged to a pattern maker, and it was chock full of all manner of high-end tools worth at least 10x what I paid for the 10ER. And, of course, a nice aluminum sanding disc.
Patience, grasshopper! ;)
skou
I've got 3 of them. One came with each one of my newer (since the trailer fire) ERs. Considering I paid about 500 dollars for all 3, including delivery on 2 of them, the discs were VERY inexpensive.
Something else to make you all envious, I keep seeing 12 inch disc paper at the (my) store. 2 packs. 80 grit, $1.99. 120 grit, $2.99. No, no one else gets a chance, I get all of them. (Well, 1 pack of 80, and 2 packs of 120.)
steve
JPG
Not actually 'counting' them as I am away from home, but I am seeking a third conical disk and have nearly 10 of 4 different versions(10ER aluminum, M5 aluminum, MV short and long hub. Some still have the paper that was on them when acquired. I have one velcro kit acquired when I had far fewer, and I do not like it.
"Wild Bad Bob"
I have aquired 4 disc with my 3 recent SS purchases, all have the adhesive backed paper on them. I was going to order at least one H&L conversion kit but after hearing what I have here, I need more info. Why are you dissatisfied with the H&L on the disc? Too soft a backing? To remove the adhesive attached paper what is the best way?
rmojo
If someone has too many disks I would be happy to relieve your burden and buy one of the price is right.
JPG
rbursek wroteI have aquired 4 disc with my 3 recent SS purchases, all have the adhesive backed paper on them. I was going to order at least one H&L conversion kit but after hearing what I have here, I need more info. Why are you dissatisfied with the H&L on the disc? Too soft a backing? To remove the adhesive attached paper what is the best way?
YEP!
STEP ONE: Move to AZ.
STEP TWO: Leave in sunshine for a couple of hours.
STEP THREE: Peel paper off disk.:D
BuckeyeDennis
For those of us who don't live in the desert, a heat gun will suffice for adhesive-backed paper removal. ;) Or your wife's oven.
If memory serves, mineral spirits worked pretty well for removing the gooey glue residue when I removed "inherited" sandpaper discs. I replaced them with new ceramic paper discs, and have not yet needed to change one of those.
skou
One of the ones that I had to clean, the residue came off with acetone. The second one, acetone just made it sticky. WD-40 worked just fine on it, though.
OK, another question, does anyone have any ideas on fixing a warped aluminum disc? It's off about 5 or 10 thousandths, and may be corrosion instead of warpage. If I had a tailstock "spindle" adapter, I'd just run one disc against the other one.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/dr_tailstock_chuckarbor.htm
steve
"Wild Bad Bob"
JPG, I asked about removing paper disc not frying bacon and eggs!!!!LOL
Since I posted I have had some time to start to go through and play with some of the accessories. The 57 greenie stuff had 2 things with it a tube of SS grease according to the box for the quill lubing, kinda of a rust red color, and a can of sanding disc adhesive. I am guessing bought about the same time as the SS based on the all the boxes are the same color and condition. In the process of changing upper spindle bearings the male splines have the same color grease residue on it, should I relube the spline with some of that grease? It is still good and has a nice grease consistency.
As good as SS stuff is, yesterday I opened the can of sanding disc adhesive, a dried layer about 1/32 thick layer was on top and pealed right off, basically the same as some dried latex paint in a old can of latex paint. The rest of the can was about 3/4 full, seems to be okay, but the can sez do not let get below 32*, which I think it may have at one time, all a machine grey color, has a unpleasant odor to it, but maybe the odor of it originally, do you think it is still good?
Back to my previous question here, why are some of you unhappy with the H&L conversion kits?
rlkeeney
I have nine sanding disks.
3 Steel Old Style
3 Aluminum bought off eBay cheap
3 Conical Disks
I consider three disks to be bare minimum to have if your using adhesive disks. I don't have the Hook & Loop. I don't do any sharpening with mine so I might want more.
I haven't used the conical disks enough to really have an opinion. I got a deal on some about the same time I realized you could join plywood edges with them.
None of my disks are the ones that fit a 520. I guess it's time for me to start watching foe some of these on eBay. :)
JPG
rbursek wroteJPG, I asked about removing paper disc not frying bacon and eggs!!!!LOL
Since I posted I have had some time to start to go through and play with some of the accessories. The 57 greenie stuff had 2 things with it a tube of SS grease according to the box for the quill lubing, kinda of a rust red color, and a can of sanding disc adhesive. I am guessing bought about the same time as the SS based on the all the boxes are the same color and condition. In the process of changing upper spindle bearings the male splines have the same color grease residue on it, should I relube the spline with some of that grease? It is still good and has a nice grease consistency.
As good as SS stuff is, yesterday I opened the can of sanding disc adhesive, a dried layer about 1/32 thick layer was on top and pealed right off, basically the same as some dried latex paint in a old can of latex paint. The rest of the can was about 3/4 full, seems to be okay, but the can sez do not let get below 32*, which I think it may have at one time, all a machine grey color, has a unpleasant odor to it, but maybe the odor of it originally, do you think it is still good?
Back to my previous question here, why are some of you unhappy with the H&L conversion kits?
Probably. As it 'dries' it will change to black. That smell is essentially latex odor. I have a can also over 50 yrs old. Has not been open for about 40. So maybe it is still salvagable!:cool:
You nailed my 'unhappiness'. Too soft. My blue Yep was meant to say so 4 posts back.;)
"Wild Bad Bob"
JPG, missed it, got it, I went right to the AZ bacon and egg recipe!!!LOL
What about greasing the male splines B4 I put it back together? Or did I miss that too?
JPG
rbursek wroteJPG, missed it, got it, I went right to the AZ bacon and egg recipe!!!LOL
'Stuff' happens. I can be less than self evident at times. Too much sly humor too often.
I fergit to comment on the red grease. I have 0 experience with it, but since the greenie's splines are metal to metal contact some kind of grease is appropriate. My 10E came with what seemed a pint of grease on the splines and showed no appreciable wear.
skou
I don't know about the Mark series, but lubing the splines on the ER is an easy process. On an UNPLUGGED machine;
Advance the quill a couple inches and lock it there. Pack a teaspoon (guesstimate here) of grease into the left end of the drive shaft. Block the grease inside with a finger, and slowly let the quill retract, and force the grease forward into the splines.
steve
JPG
skou wroteI don't know about the Mark series, but lubing the splines on the ER is an easy process. On an UNPLUGGED machine]
The Mark series does not need greasing.
WmZiggy
skou wrote OK, another question, does anyone have any ideas on fixing a warped aluminum disc? It's off about 5 or 10 thousandths, and may be corrosion instead of warpage. If I had a tailstock "spindle" adapter, I'd just run one disc against the other one. steve
I couldn't handle a disk on my metal lathe, but you could probably find someone - perhaps a machine shop - that could. I'd have to think about trying to true it on the SS. You really need a slide rest that can firmly anchor a cutter and move across the face at a controlled depth of cut. I'd find a machine shop.
JPG
I'd not worry about 1/100th of an inch.;)
swampgator
I have an aluminun sanding disk and a steel disk. Both with velcro H&L. Love both of them. I make many toys, bandsaw boxes and some furniture. I always do a rough sanding before dry fitting. I have a lot of rough sawn wood and I sand it all down to a smooth finish with the H&L disks.
Now, I have some sharpening stones that have been used. Thinking of putting them on a shaft and on the opposite side of the headstock for sharpening chisels. The speed is right. Curious as to thoughts. :eek:
