Shopsmith Forums

I picked up a shopsmith for the bandsaw and drill press functions, only now the lathe is really calling to me. I am much more interested in bowl turning than spindles, pens etc.
I feel I got a great deal - since I'm having fun de-rusting, cleaning and polishing - but I'm on a tight budget already. After the $200 for the shopsmiths (an '82 and a 'broken' greenie that needs belt, a bandsaw, a planer and an old old jigsaw), and after getting bearings, I won't be able to go buy an expensive chuck, chisels, grinding wheel, etc.

I'd like advise on what is necessary to get started, what is the minimum that won't leave me too frustrated and failing from lack of proper tools.

The only lathe parts they came with are two tool rests, two end posts (one with the adjustable insert, one with no insert), and a spurred drive center and a live center. No faceplates, chucks other than drill chuck, or chisels.

First, the chisels:
Which do I need initially and what would you get?
Do they need to be HSS? I'd need a different grinding wheel for HSS than the norton 3x I'm ordering for my other uses and I know my hand cranked antique grinder isn't up to it. Two different 3x wheels is expensive.
Are there cheap wheels I can use on the shopsmith for HSS chisels?
Also, I've enjoyed making other tools out of high carbon steel and heat treating is not a problem for high carbon, but would be for HSS.

I read an article recently where they sent different chisels for lab analysis. The shopsmith chisels were HSS, though I assume they weren't always. They seem to be some of the cheaper used chisels on Ebay - are they any good?

What about workholding? I read somewhere that a fancy chuck isn't vital if you don't mind cutting off the wood that had the screws in it. I'll start with free logs and not expensive nice blanks, so I don't think that will matter. Which size faceplate would you suggest? What else is needed?

I'll weigh down the machine, can't bolt it down. I'll also spend time to get the blank as trimmed and balanced as I can before hand, but I'm worried about the headstock: do single bearing quills have problems with bowl turning?

What about those adapters I see that let you use common threaded chucks on shopsmiths? Are they a decent idea or are they prone to failure?

Lastly, any favorite books or other sources for learning bowl turning? There are a lot out there, which do you like?

I know it doesn't look like it from this post, but I do do my homework before asking. Right now I'm limited on my computer use and while I've searched and read, I am still left with the above very basic questions.
Thank you!
Fitzhugh

Hi Fritz! Welcome! For good book, look at the next thread in the beginning forum. It is made for beginning as well as older turners.

First, you need a faceplate. Get one that fits a Shopsmith. Here--- http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... plates.htm

Yes, Shopsmith lathe tools are good! Just need to sharpen and keep them sharp.

You're correct, an expensive chuck isn't necessary. You will figure soon enough if you need one. (want one). When buying a chuck, get one from Shopsmith to avoid getting the wrong insert.

Best Wishes!

I can give only my "opinion" regarding a couple items.

First, if you are looking for ease in turning, I would suggest a carbide tipped chisel. There are a multitude of sites to buy cheaply (Cap'n Eddie is a start) or if you have the inclination, build your own. Though not the elegant crafters as are gouges and skews, the results are reasonable and the learning curve less steep (again just my opinion). You will forego learning the art of sharpening (until such time as you decide to switch to conventional chisels), however some find the process enjoyable.

As Chuck says, the Shopsmith face plates are a great start. One alternative to screwing into the bowl blank is to screw the plate to a sacrificial piece of wood and then temporarily glue the "real" bowl blank to the sacrificial piece. It simply is done with a piece of craft paper sandwiched between them. Personally I use a hot glue gun.

There are MANY others who have a great deal of more valuable information than I could provide. The above is just my opinion.

Have fun.

Be well,
Ben

I recommend books and videos by Richard Raffan for bowl turning techniques. If you decide to start with HSS tools, Cap'n Eddie (already mentioned) has a few great YouTube videos on using a cheap bench top belt sander and homemade jigs for sharpening.

Have fun!


Ken

I would suggest that your first task should be to develop the capability of sharpening all of your chisels. Now you may already have that capability but if not.....

Secondly, evaluate the bearings in the upper drive line (including the quill) on your Shopsmith. If these bearings are not all in good shape, it will have an impact on your turnings.

I reccommend this video by Bob Hamilton
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUwl1tpAao
He also shows sharpening "his" way and as mentioned eariler CaptnEddie has many good videos and tips

fitzhugh wrote: Do they need to be HSS? I'd need a different grinding wheel for HSS than the norton 3x I'm ordering for my other uses and I know my hand cranked antique grinder isn't up to it.
Thank you!
Fitzhugh

The chisels don't NEED to be HSS, but you may have a hard time finding carbon steel chisels nowadays. Carbon steel chisels are easy to burn and loose the temper, but ya can get em sharper than HHS.
WHICH 3X wheel did ya order? Ya need the J or K grade for HSS. A good idea for sharpening is to get the Wolverine jig by Oneway. Like this one
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200199 ... g-Jig.aspx

Here's a link for Captn Eddie, where ya can learn much from him.

https://www.youtube.com/user/capneddie/videos

You tube is your friend if you can learn that way.

Here are my personal recommendations based on my own experience.

SS chisels are great, mine are old and are carbon steel (don't dismiss carbon steel chisels they can get much sharper than HSS or carbide) the only problem with carbon steel is the edges don't last. HSS is next in line for getting sharp and the edge will definitely last longer. I also have some HSS chisels. Harbor freight has a set of 8 HSS chisels that are actually fairly well received by turners. with the 20 percent coupon less than $50. Keep in mind that most of the chisels in this set are not bowl making chisels. You can get by with a round nose scraper to get started but a good bowl gouge will become self evident once you've done a few bowls. I have the wood river 3/8" bowl gouge from woodcraft. It's a decent tool for the price.

I have never used carbide tools so can't speak for them, only what I hear. Not great for bowls, not great for final cuts and finishing. The facts of the metal is that it simply can't get as sharp of an edge as HSS or Carbon steel. It can retain a sharp enough edge longer though.

Develop a sharpening system you are comfortable with. I use an inexpensive 1" strip sander (120 grit belt) and some diamond cards/files for shaping, sharpening and HONING my lathe chisels. For hobbyist woodworkers on a budget, I can't justify or recommend the expense of some of the various sharpening systems out there.

You definitely need at least one face plate for bowl turning. I only have one 3" (DO NOT USE DRY WALL SCREWS FOR FASTENING A WASTE BLOCK OR BOWL BLANK they're too brittle and just break). Various size waste blocks can be screwed on and used/reused until they are gone, just replace with new ones. You can find examples and instructions online for making your own faceplates but I'm not comfortable with that on the SS due to the straight 5/8" bore.

A Scroll chuck is not necessary but very useful put it on a wish list. The one from SS when it goes on sale is actually a good deal. I wish I had gone that route. Perhaps my next chuck will be one of those.

Good luck, if you have additional questions ask away.

First, thank you all! That is really helpful information, both answers and the links and tips. Great, nobody said "nah, you're screwed unless you get a $300 chuck, a set of eight $120 chisels, two $60 grinding wheels, and an $80 jig. Oh, and a $3000 lathe instead of the shopsmith."

So the adapters (shopsmith shaft to chuck) aren't a big point of failure? Not sure why they seem they would be.

I'm set up for hand sharpening high carbon steel tools since until the shopsmiths I've been almost 100% hand tool only. The "almost" is a 1x30 HF belt grinder. I got it when I started making blades for hand tools recently, for rough shaping, and didn't occur to me to use it for sharpening HSS. That will make it easier and cheaper. And if I can make a HC steel tool at some point to try, well, all the better.
I've seen lots of raves about the carbide tools but the traditional style just appeals to me more. Almost all my sharpening and honing is on flat planar surfaces, not gouges and the like. I'll read up on that.

The Norton 3x I ordered is the one you want unless you have hss. Not sure which, might be able to put a hold on them shipping it. Got it for hollow grinding hand tool blades.

Shopping list, am I missing anything to start out?:
A book or two to read while I finish stripping and going over my shopsmith
bearings etc. as needed.
then a faceplate, a couple chisels, belts, and perhaps a shop made jig to sharpen using the belt grinder.

I'll watch the youtube videos while I clean and polish the ss parts.

Thanks for all the guidance. I'll be back with more questions, no doubt.

The above advise has been very good. I rebuilded a shopsmith a couble years ago that had a single bearing quill. It had a lot of wobble when turning that made it difficult to get a smooth bowl. I purchase the two bearing quill from shopsmith and it made a huge difference and I recommend that you consider the upgrade. It will not only help in turning but also in sawing and sanding.

Buy the basic tools and learn how to use and sharpen them. Then practice and practice till you learn how to use each tool.

Check the American Assocition Of Woodturners website and see if there is a woodturners chapter close to you. If so attend their meetings. Most chapters have memtor programs and they will help you learn. In the meeting they usually have speakers showing different types of turning which makes it a good place to learn and meet .