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ER Rebuild??

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:25 pm
by "Wild Bad Bob"
There are a couple very nice and complete ERs for sale by me. Not that I need one, but I was thinking for a winter project a total rebuild like I see some do here with Mark V vintage stuff. I just figure the ER is simpler to do and since I have 3 Mark V of various ages in good shape both appearance and mechanically.
That I may like a show room new ER to appreciate the start of it all. If I would go ahead with it I would not need it for a piece of equipment but would not like to have it sitting around for a museum piece either, someone mentioned they make a good lathe since with the bed you have a place to put weight to steady the vibrations. What other practical piece could I designate it for? Any draw backs to trying and restoring one? The 2 seem, by the pics have all the attachments and accessories that were available back then.

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:54 pm
by terrydowning
really good lathe.
great drill press.

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:23 pm
by "Wild Bad Bob"
Wil the Mark V lath face plates, spindles/centers fit on a ER? Even thou the pics seem to show centers.

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:44 pm
by heathicus
rbursek wrote:Wil the Mark V lath face plates, spindles/centers fit on a ER? Even thou the pics seem to show centers.

Yep. Yep.

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:28 pm
by e2512
I wouldn't think twice about it. Buy all of them. I love my ER and E, their built like tanks.
Tom

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:35 pm
by rjent
I am currently rebuilding a pretty good shape ER while I am waiting for my Mark 7 to come in. It is a amazing machine, easy to work on and with, and I am looking for another to do. Do it! You won't be sorry! ;)

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:13 am
by skou
The ER is really a simple machine, with the exposed motor and exposed belt(s.)

It is VERY easy to work on, but it DOES have some limitations. Safety is the first one. (See my comment above on exposed stuff.) Second, is the limited power. Most came with an A.O Smith 1/2 HP motor. (Yes, you could get the ER without a motor, and quite a few did.)

With the exception of the speed increaser or decreaser for the Mk-X models, EVERYTHING that mounts on the Mk series spindle will mount on ER. Even an arbor for the 10 inch blade. (But that blade won't fit through the tablesaw slot.)

If the price on the 2 you're looking at is decent, I'd get both. Just to get spare parts and extras. (How many sanding discs are too many? 6? 8?) And, the ER stuff will also work on your Mk-X. If you have a Mk5 500 shaper/molder fence, it also fits the ER table, and in my opinion is better than the ER model.

Oh, best lathe of ANY Shopsmith.

If you have any more questions, ASK.

steve

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 8:11 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
Skou,
It hurts me to say at this time I cant afford both, they both have the same things included and are in about the same shape, fair to good for there age. They have been in use, not sitting in the garage corner for the last 20 years rusting away. $150 and $200, the one for 200 has a new motor. I have not been in contact with that person. I plan on looking/buying the 150 this weekend if all is okay, I will be talking to person this evening. He sez all bearings are quiete and wiggle free, has owned it for 2 years. Nice to here people are still buying them and USING them!
Is there any reason you could not put a 3/4HP motor on them? Keep the RPM rating the same. Take a look.
http://racine.craigslist.org/tls/4441370704.html
http://madison.craigslist.org/tls/4399566230.html

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 9:43 am
by dgale
rbursek wrote:Skou,
It hurts me to say at this time I cant afford both, they both have the same things included and are in about the same shape, fair to good for there age. They have been in use, not sitting in the garage corner for the last 20 years rusting away. $150 and $200, the one for 200 has a new motor. I have not been in contact with that person. I plan on looking/buying the 150 this weekend if all is okay, I will be talking to person this evening. He sez all bearings are quiete and wiggle free, has owned it for 2 years. Nice to here people are still buying them and USING them!
Is there any reason you could not put a 3/4HP motor on them? Keep the RPM rating the same. Take a look.
http://racine.craigslist.org/tls/4441370704.html
http://madison.craigslist.org/tls/4399566230.html
Not sure about prices out that way but in my west coast experience, both of those are overpriced. I bought two, both in similar working condition and paid $50 for one and $100 for the other. I since was given two more from a guy who couldn't sell them and just wanted to clear out the garage space. IMO, a 10E/ER has to also have a speed changer and/or other accessories beyond the basics to merit that cost. Perhaps prices are different out your way but I think you definitely have some haggle room, which could end up allowing you to afford both. I'd offer $100 for the $150 machine and have the cash in your hand when you do it…I'd be surprised if the buyer didn't take it. Most folks looking to part with big, bulky, heavy cast iron stuff won't miss an opportunity to be done with it and have it gone in my experience.

Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 10:03 am
by e2512
I would grab the $150 one if it were me. Here's what I see from the picture. It looks like all the small parts are there. You'll go broke if you end up having to replace the drill chuck, key, centers and stuff like that. You also are getting the bench legs that look to be in good shape. It has the right motor. Look at the $200 machine. There's a cut out in the center of the bench to allow room for the capacitor. The right motor has the capacitor 90 degrees from the mount. Back to the $150 machine. Look at the motor again. It looks to be hanging at an angle. The set screws that hold the motor plate loosen and allow the motor to drop. This puts to much pressure on the outter drive sleeve bearing because the belt is to tight.

Don't beleive that the bearings are good. I've seem maybe 2 machines that had good bearings and the right belt tension. The only way to truly feel the bearings is to remove the quill and drive sleeve and hand roll them. The quill bearings last longer and are more expensive. The drive sleeve bearings are cheap and I would change them out at this point because their inexpensive.

Remember the belt on the ER is the weak link. It should not be as tight as an automotive belt.

The $200 unit has the shaper fence but I didn't see any extras that go with it. You can always pick them up on ebay if you decide you want them.

Enjoy, Tom