Shopsmith Forums

I recently got my first shopsmiths, an '82 with a greenie tossed in. They were poorly stored and probably poorly maintained. The bottom tubes were all quite rusty and there was some rust elsewhere, while the aluminum is quite oxidized. The previous owner used only the 82, and only for one project and used just the planer.

I'm working over the '82 and ignorning the greenie for now since it has at least one crunchy bearing and a broken gilmer belt I took the greenie all apart except the actual quill, and the motor, then reassembled it and put it aside for now since it needs at least two bearings (noticably crunchy) and a new gimler belt (came broken, hence the free "broken" greenie).

I'm enjoying polishing them up - they're turning out great - but I'm impatient to try using one for a bit.

Can I get a reasonable sense of whether the bearings are OK without fully stripping the machine? I've taken it apart until only the drive shaft and ilder are still in place with the poly v belt around them. They turn fine, though you can feel when the belt is going through the position it stayed in for some long time - it gets easier and harder to turn, but clearly from the belt. No grit like feeling or anything. I can't tell how much the shafts will stay freewheeling (or whatever the term is) since the belt is on.


And the belts: does it matter that they sat in the same position for some unknown long time and don't return to round when slack? They seem hardly used after being put in as replacements at some unknown time past.
The 82 belt is 9/16 inch wide, the greenie belt is 17/32 inch, so both are actually wider than the stated 1/2 inch. Both are shopsmith belts.

The '82, however, is marred from pressing against or perhaps being pinched by the drive sheaves. I imagine it will make it vibrate a bit and run noisy, but will it functionally be a problem? Here's the belt, both ends have these dents:
[ATTACH]24874[/ATTACH]
I've heard of belt dressing, should I use it? They don't seem to be drying out.

Thank you!
Fitzhugh

1st I applogise in the past for the abreviation of Fritz not Fitz.
2nd you owe me one, its all your fault,!!!! looking at that ER 10 tomorrow with cash in pocket, talked to him tonight, he had it 2 years, bought it from the original owner he sez. Wish it had a speed changer too, they are not that common out here like in CA, ER 10s I mean, you mentioned it and 2 appeared on CL all of a sudden, I have not seen any here on that B4 then!!!
In my recent purchase, the greenie and goldie the V belts had the same "set" in then from sitting and the same with my nephews 54 greenie that he bought in Sept, he ran it B4 buying and did not turn back on till Jan, plus sitting in a 20* garage since he bought it, and we had to help spin it to get it going the first time, but was sitting for years unused. I think, IMHO many of these have been sitting unused for years and the belts just get that way. Again, IMHO with use I think they will be fine if the belt itself is in good shape. My greenies Gilmer belt was broken and I think the V belt was original, as long as I had to go through all to change the Gilmer, I ordered a new V belt too. Mayo said to put some belt dressing on the V and then wipe off the excess B4 installing.

I forgot about the bearing question!!!! Too many Martinis tonight!!! I think in a 82 since these things were over built and most did not get the use they were designed/made for and no water intrusion they would be fine. Now if they previous owner did a lot of lathe work then the bearings got "used" a lot. IMO if the spin smoothly, and you do not feel anything I bet they are okay, but the belt would have to be off for that.

Belt dressing fer sure!!!!!!!! Both belts. That will reduce 'set' caused vibration.

The Mark x belts are not 1/2", they are wider when new. They will wear down eventually. 9/16 and 17/32 are decent condition.

FWIW, store the belts 'inside out'.

No problem about the name thing, it happens often and doesn't bother me.
If you get the er10 you have to post photos for sure! There are at least 2 other er10s on cl in this area, $150 each. Not as good as 50 though.

Thanks for the info on belts and bearings. I guess I'll take off the belt and check the bearings. On the greenie the belt was broken so I didn't have to do much to remove the two shafts. On this one I'll just have to read the shop manual again. In truth I'll feel a lot better if I've done a proper job and cleaned and checked then I'll too.

I'll also treat the belts.

Do you think those compressed sections of the belt will be a problem?

And one more reminder... Pictures when you get it!
Here is a before and after, only it is the two machines not one. Still need to get the fine scratches out but I'm excited by the results. I actually did the worst ones first.[ATTACH]24875[/ATTACH]

Fitzhugh

The metal looks great!!! What did you use?
It is $150 not $50, going to start an offer at $100.
What do you mean by compressed, the fixed shape of the belt? IMO if the belt is in good shape, by running the machine will get rid of the shape/set

Thanks! I used a lot of wet dry paper: 320, 400, 600, 1000, 2000, sometimes starting with 220. Where possible I tried to use a small wooden backing piece to avoid rounding stuff too much. Had to be careful because the metal is quick to sand. I got all neurotic about getting it nice, just as the author of the wonderful vast thread on his rebuild/restore warned (can't think of name but it is ugh the sticks).

I ended with polish. I tried three different ones based on recommendations here: nevr-dull, flitz (I think, can't find bottle just now, and also some generic stuff I found in the cabinet. Each worked well.

I sometimes used scotchbright pads from the grocery store. Tried aluminum brightener/aluminum jelly, had minimal results.

Definitely had happiervhands when I started wearing gloves the whole time.

Some polished pieces look better in photos, some worse. They ask look better than what was there.

Now be aware I'm making it up as I go along with help from people here who actually do know such things.

Another note, already covered here but worth repeating: I used electrolysis to remove rust from tubes and parts. It is amazingly effective and easy. Once very rusty lower tubes are shiny again!

Wow, all that and I forgot the belt question:

The belt has dents from where the pulleys pressed into it for a long time. You can make them out in the photo above if you know to look for them.
Thanks,
Fitzhugh

Fitz, just a fast learning novice here, but I saw them, in my demented thinking they came from the sheaves while they were stationary for years. I would think they would cause vibrations, spinning on the pulleys/sheaves and all those bumps on the belt in those nice smooth sheaves. It is subjective unless others know more, and I would think here they do, but I would replace it.

rbursek wrote:Fitz, just a fast learning novice here, but I saw them, in my demented thinking they came from the sheaves while they were stationary for years. I would think they would cause vibrations, spinning on the pulleys/sheaves and all those bumps on the belt in those nice smooth sheaves. It is subjective unless others know more, and I would think here they do, but I would replace it.

If it were a simple thing to obtain, I would agree(only two sources that I am aware of). 9/16 x 26.5 not commonly found.

I do agree with your original opinion that running will tend to smooth them out. The sheaves are not 'smooth', but choppy(for lack of a better word) and are the source of much vibration/noise already. Tis easy to replace later anyway.