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New addition to the stable, an Old Grey Mare!!

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 11:28 pm
by "Wild Bad Bob"
Well all, went spending today, asking 150 got it for $125 with original leg ends. Did I buy a ER10 or E? SN is E56762, so is that an E10 or ER10, my guess is a E10. Help here on the # and age please. Runs good, not much rust, only on the tubes. Thursday I picked up a goldie, my neighbor and I carried it in to the basement with the legs extensions off, just the 4 tubes and head stock, with the cast aluminum ends, today he and I carried in the new purchase with the mounting ends off, he said "s*/t this weighs more then the other one", I agreed!!
So will use it as a lathe for now, this winter, with all of your help will do a total rebuild and painting, even though the grey paint is in really good shape, no rust, I bet if I washed it, went over it with polishing compound to get rid of any oxidation, and gave it a clear coat thats all I would have to do to the external painted areas, and polish the aluminum. The TS table assembly weighs more then the one on my goldie and greenie!!! pics here I think!!??? First one.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... 517&page=2
Fitz, like I said "you owe me"
rpd, it came with a 12" sanding disc, I now have 4, cant have enough of them for different grits, I will set them up with 80, 120, 150 or 180, and 220!!!

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 11:56 pm
by JPG
Assuming it is the one in Racine. If so it is a 10ER.

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 12:17 am
by dgale
Should say on the plate - they usually state either 10E or 10ER…read the print on the plate at about 7pm or so if I remember correctly…just left of where the serial # is usually stamped. Could be a 10E that had some parts upgraded to 10ER...

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 12:24 am
by JPG
dgale wrote:Should say on the plate - they usually state either 10E or 10ER…read the print on the plate at about 7pm or so if I remember correctly…just left of where the serial # is usually stamped. Could be a 10E that had some parts upgraded to 10ER...
Those plates can be confusing and just plain misleading.

An ER has: calibrated quill spring housing, Rip fence with rear clamp and mortising hold down hole, tail stock has adjustable center, miter gauge head is similar to Mark x, trunion has lever stops, aluminum extension table with CI mounting bracket that slides on the tailstock casting.

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 12:42 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
easy guys!! the plate sez E then the number. JPG it was the one in Racine. JPG the Quill setting only has a threaded shaft and a knurled disc on it to lock it at the depth you have to measure, it is not calibrated. Too many Saturday Martinis to go to the basement to look at the tail stock. I might fall down and spill something!!!!LOL!!!!!!!

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 12:51 am
by dgale
rbursek wrote:easy guys!! the plate sez E then the number. JPG it was the one in Racine. JPG the Quill setting only has a threaded shaft and a knurled disc on it to lock it at the depth you have to measure, it is not calibrated. Too many Saturday Martinis to go to the basement to look at the tail stock. I might fall down and spill something!!!!LOL!!!!!!!
If I remember correctly, a letter in the serial # is related to the location where it was manufactured (SF vs Ohio) and not anything to do with E vs ER.

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 12:57 am
by skou
dgale wrote:Could be a 10E that had some parts upgraded to 10ER...
This is a valid guess. Did you see any E model stuff? Tailstock, with the #2 Morse taper machined in, and 2 studs to mount the extension table bracket?

What is written on the lower half of the nameplate? My original ER said (to the left of the model number) model 10 E. The serial number was R24996. BUT, it came with a later model tailstock, with later ext table, but had the bracket for a E model ext table. (Didn't have the early E model tailstock, or ext table, though.) It also had the ripfence without the rear clamp. The guys at the Shopsmith store here in Tempe, (way back when) said it was an ER model.

steve

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 1:06 am
by dgale
According to Skip's info on the 10E yahoo site, serial #'s around that # are 10ERs from 1951. Some have an "E" with the serial #, some have an "R", and to further confuse things, some have an "ER"…I was always told that the "R" stood for San Francisco and the "E" meant Ohio…not sure what "ER" is supposed to mean if that is true. All of mine are 10E's and have no letter code - they are all early enough to have all been made in SF, as I don't think they branched out to Ohio until a year or two in.

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 10:36 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
What are the details of this Yahoo SS site/forum, I read somewhere someone was on a waiting list to get on it?? Do you have to pay to be a member?

Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 10:46 am
by JPG
rbursek wrote:easy guys!! the plate sez E then the number. JPG it was the one in Racine. JPG the Quill setting only has a threaded shaft and a knurled disc on it to lock it at the depth you have to measure, it is not calibrated. Look on the other end of the quill feed shaft(the spring housing - yes it external) and a collar with numbers and graduations will be apparent(is the martini glass empty yet?) Too many Saturday Martinis to go to the basement to look at the tail stock. I might fall down and spill something!!!!LOL!!!!!!!
AIUI(or have concluded) when the E to ER changeover happened, on hand E stuff was used until it ran out. A frugal plan at best.

I believe they had a large pile of medallions with "10E", so that is a poor determining factor.

So perhaps the only 'clean' models are Early 10Es and later 10ERs. That said there were additional ER modifications as time wore on(rip fence knob orientation, head rest[2 hole/4 hole mount/CI/aluminum], extension table mounting bracket length . . .).