Shopsmith Forums

Just have a moment before game of thrones, but I want to ask while I have the chance (get in trouble if I'm tapping away when it is on)

Any reason I can't put a grinding wheel on my second shopsmith and use it as a slower speed sharpening station while using the main one for a lathe?

What are my options for grinding wheels that work for both HSS and all my high carbon lathe and other tools? I've only got one HSS tool, a bowl gouge, so far. Norton said their HSS grade (is it the I or the K? I forget) 3x blue wheel is OK with high carbon, just runs a little hotter and is more friable so it wears a little faster. What about cheaper wheels? White? That would be much better for me, even if I end up replacing it in the future with a better wheel.


Anyone sharpen their lathe tools on a sanding disk?
Any suggestions?
Thanks!

I would think that the Norton 3X Blue K wheel would work well for you. That is what came on my Jet slow speed grinder, along with a white aluminum oxide wheel. The grinder is marketed for woodworking tool use.

Mike

fitzhugh wrote:Any reason I can't put a grinding wheel on my second shopsmith and use it as a slower speed sharpening station while using the main one for a lathe?


Anyone sharpen their lathe tools on a sanding disk?
Any suggestions?
Thanks!

How about using the AUX spindle for the wheel? Just take the hub off and put the wheel or the sanding disk on it.

Fitz;
There is no big problem using the white grinding wheel to sharpen lathe chisels. I bought a Jet grinder which is 3450 RPM and then they came out with a slow speed(1725) RPM about three months later. (Really was PO'd ):mad: I like grinding on a wheel rather than on the flat sanding disc or the strip or belt sander. The reason is that I have come to prefer the concave shape of the bevel that forms on the wheel. I have found that it cuts down on a lot of grinding because the concave bevel permits honing using the diamond credit card hone. The card rests on the cutting edge and the heel of the bevel and the cutting edge can then be easily honed by maintaining contact between the two points.
As for which is better, that is a matter of personal preference. I wish I had the money back that I spent on sharpening systems over the years that didn't work out. I currently use the Jet grinder and the OneWay Wolverine sharpening fixture which works for me.
Try to get some help from an experienced turner or a club in your area. You may be able to try some of the various systems and make a better judgment.
Just one additional note: I use the 150 grit white grinding wheel because I think that it takes off less material and puts on a finer edge that requires less honing.
All the best
Bill V

Thanks! You guys even gave me the answers I wanted :)

I much prefer hollow ground tools for the reason Bill points out, though I hadn't tried a diamond card. I saw they now carry them at the local HW store so I'll get one along with a white wheel, though I wish the blue 3x came in a finer grit.


It's amazing how the shopsmith is solving problems for me. I've always been a hand tool (hand powered) only woodworker, slowly making my own tools - both for fun and learning and sometimes save some money. I kept running into situations where one of three tools would make a huge difference: bandsaw, bench grinder and drill press. I just couldn't figure out which to buy first and my budget is tiny.
Then I saw the shopsmith ad in CL! So, here I am. I spent less than I would have for separate used machines. I hadn't even thought of using it as a grinder. These machines are just such a great fit for someone in my situation. Perfect lathe? Nah, but it sure beats no lathe.

Anyhow, thanks for your guidance.

fitzhugh wrote:though I wish the blue 3x came in a finer grit.

A finer wheel equals more heat. BAD for your carbon steel tools.

Huh, I'm glad you told me because I had no idea. Only grinder i've used is a 5 inch hand cranked one. I did find I could burn a tool but it took substantial inattention. It still has the antique wheel which I think ruins hotter in any case.

So, is 100 grit white wheel and honing on a diamond stone (or wallet card) an OK compromise?

Thanks,
Fitzhugh

Fitz;
As I said earlier it is a personal thing. Ask 5 turners what the correct way to grind a tool is and you will get 5 answers. (maybe more):D
I know turners that don't hone at all but go straight from a 100 grit wheel to the lathe and no honing. They consider it a waste of time. Again, it is personal. I tried the SS sharpening system and although I was able to get a good edge every time I wanted to sharpen it would require breaking down my turning setup, not a good alternative. I tried the Grizzly clone of a Tormek and while it is a good system it was way too slow.
The One Way system that I am using now is what I will stick with.
If you are looking for a sharpening system you may want to look at the Penn State system that is similar to the One Way system. I have never had the PSI system in my hands but it looks to mimic the One Way enough that it may work.
In order to answer the second part of your question, a 100 grit wheel and the credit card hone is OK but you may also want to get a slip stone to hone the inside of the flute on gouges. By grinding and honing th eskew I can shave the hair off my arm.

Bill V

fitzhugh wrote:So, is 100 grit white wheel and honing on a diamond stone (or wallet card) an OK compromise?

Thanks,
Fitzhugh

The 100 grit should be okay for sharping, but knot for reshaping a tool. Some PRO'S use a 40 and 80 grit for their purposes.

Fitzhugh ya might want to check this lick out to see if there's a local chapter near you for help.

http://www.woodturner.org/search/custom.asp?id=1509