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I have been reading a lot, lately, about table saws and I see many references (or criticisms) about "under powered" table saws. Strangely enough none of these were with reference to the Shopsmith (PowerPro or otherwise).

What constitutes an "under powered table saw"?

dusty wrote:I have been reading a lot, lately, about table saws and I see many references (or criticisms) about "under powered" table saws. Strangely enough none of these were with reference to the Shopsmith (PowerPro or otherwise).

What constitutes an "under powered table saw"?

One that doesn't cut as fast as you think it should.

Some people approach wood working as they do many things to accomplish the task rather than enjoy the trip.

I have watched framers ram circular saws through 2x4 that to me was just plain dangerous. I have seen table saws with power feeds that cram wood into the blade. And I have seen craftsman using a hand saw with precision make cuts that were almost spiritual to watch.

If your goal is getting finished then no saw will have enough power. If you are doing it to enjoy the trip then most saws have more than enough power.

I would say any saw that could make a full depth of blade cut in the hardest wood available to the person making the cut has sufficient power. Likewise if you can't make a cut on a saw because it simply won't cut it is under powered.

Dusty,

I think a lot of the term comes from people who are trying to get too much out of their inexpensive contractor saws (too fast, too deep), often using a less than optimal blade (cheap, thick kerf blade, ripping with high tooth count blade, dull blade, etc.), expecting the same performance cutting hardwoods such as maple, cherry, walnut as lumber yard 2x4s, and so forth.

It may also come from those who are trying to justify (or maybe bragging about) overspending on their saws (buying a $$$$ cabinet saw to make pine bird houses).

roy_okc wrote:Dusty,

I think a lot of the term comes from people who are trying to get too much out of their inexpensive contractor saws (too fast, too deep), often using a less than optimal blade (cheap, thick kerf blade, ripping with high tooth count blade, dull blade, etc.), expecting the same performance cutting hardwoods such as maple, cherry, walnut as lumber yard 2x4s, and so forth.

It may also come from those who are trying to justify (or maybe bragging about) overspending on their saws (buying a $$$$ cabinet saw to make pine bird houses).

Well said Roy_okc!!!!!

dusty wrote:I have been reading a lot, lately, about table saws and I see many references (or criticisms) about "under powered" table saws. Strangely enough none of these were with reference to the Shopsmith (PowerPro or otherwise).

That is strange because almost any thread on the usual woodworking sites that asks opinions about Shopsmiths invariably gets one or both of these responses: (1) underpowered as a table saw and (2) jack of all trades/master of none.

Now I don't agree with either of those statements but we see them time and again.

dusty wrote:What constitutes an "under powered table saw"?

This is easy. The correct definition is: Any saw that (1) has less HP than the saw purchased by the guy saying your saw is underpowered; or (2) any saw owned by someone wishing to buy a new table saw.

I agree that if one is attempting to justify a new Unisaw (or a StopSaw) that "needing power" is a good reason for not buying one of those "under powered" saws.

But what realistically constitutes a need for power?

I feel that if what you are using safely cuts what you have to cut it is not under powered.

I seldom (very seldom) attempt to cut anything over 2" on my Mark V. With a proper and sharp saw blade I find that I have no problems at all.

Thus I conclude that my Mark V is NOT UNDER POWERTED for what I typically use it for.

Now the purple heart and mesquite slow things down a bit but then I very seldom cut a lot of purple heart or mesquite.

dusty wrote:I agree that if one is attempting to justify a new Unisaw (or a StopSaw) that "needing power" is a good reason for not buying one of those "under powered" saws.

But what realistically constitutes a need for power?

I feel that if what you are using safely cuts what you have to cut it is not under powered.

I seldom (very seldom) attempt to cut anything over 2" on my Mark V. With a proper and sharp saw blade I find that I have no problems at all.

Thus I conclude that my Mark V is NOT UNDER POWERTED for what I typically use it for.

Now the purple heart and mesquite slow things down a bit but then I very seldom cut a lot of purple heart or mesquite.

Don't forget cranking down the speed dial (slowing the RPMs) on the Mark 5/V increases torque. Will cut slower but won't bog down/stall where a fixed RPM table saw of similar HP might.

Plenty of power, for my uses. Only time I've seen it bog down are when a blade is extremely dull.

dusty wrote:I have been reading a lot, lately, about table saws and I see many references (or criticisms) about "under powered" table saws.

What constitutes an "under powered table saw"?

Yours is underpowered if it's smaller than the next guy's.
Someone has a lumber mill, ALL the other saws are UNDER POWERED.
Mine does fine for me, so no under power here.

5HP Unisaw you say? How cute for cutting toothpicks. Isn't it a bit underpowered?

Let's try a V8 powered saw:
http://toolmonger.com/2012/10/25/its-just-cool-homebrew-v8-sawmill/

More power! Ough ough ough ough! </timtoolmantaylorvoice>