Shopsmith Forums

My retractable casters cleaned up nicely except for the actual casters - time to look at some larger replacements. My only problem is one of them is rusted in the metal bar that it fits into.

I'm wondering, should I even try cutting off the old caster and drilling out the old stem?

I've tried electrolytic rust removal - the only thing it did less than amazing on - and soaking in penetrating oil.

Now that I think of it - I also have a bunch of bar clamps that belong to the neighbor that were left out in the rain. The threads rusted hard. I got a few loose but there are a bunch more and it would be great to fix them and be able to return them fixed (I got them rusted! I didn't leave them out myself). Is there any way to free really rusted threads?

They're jorgensen steel bar clamps like this, and aren't cheap:

Thanks!
Fitzhugh

Try evaporust. It WILL remove the black oxide on the piston if it is so.

How long did you zap it in the electrolysis tank?

Dittos on the Evap-o-rust. I have been using it since I learned about it on this site and it works really well. It does the job without being noxious and dangerous to use. Tool Harbor and Freight and other Big Box Stores have it.

You know, I think I may not have tried the electrolytic approach. I don't think it would have worked as well since the rust is "hidden" and it needs a rather line of sight access to the anode. I haven't tried Evap-o-rust since I summed it was like naval jelly, kinda nasty and toxic. I did try electrolysis and naval jelly on the clamps with no luck, come to think of it.

I will get some Evap-o-rust!

Thanks guys.
Fitzhugh

fitzhugh wrote:You know, I think I may not have tried the electrolytic approach. I don't think it would have worked as well since the rust is "hidden" and it needs a rather line of sight access to the anode. I haven't tried Evap-o-rust since I summed it was like naval jelly, kinda nasty and toxic. I did try electrolysis and naval jelly on the clamps with no luck, come to think of it.

I will get some Evap-o-rust!

Thanks guys.
Fitzhugh

Evaporust will seep into the nooks and crannies and it is non-toxic and does not affect base metal. Tis a tad expensive unless buying it by the gallon(at HF with a discount coupon).

Guess I should get some. Does it have a shelf life to worry about? If not I'll get a gallon.

How about a torch, like an oxy acetylene torch. Works almost every time for me on anything so rusted it fails to move. Heat the part it goes into and get it good and hot, then turn, wiggle etc.
Not recommended for soft metals though, or if so, use a propane torch. But typically these metals don't rust in place, but corrode.
If no oxy/acet torch, then the drill may be your friend.

I tried a propane but only half-arsed, wasn't sure I'd really heard it suggested. I'll try the mapp pro, that's the only thing I have hotter. I can't 'ruin' them since my neighbor had said something along the lines of "sure, use them if you can fix em, no use to me as they are" when I saw them in the space between our houses (we're behind their house on same property/landlord - luckily we've got great neighbors all around).