Shopsmith Forums

I have a mid 1980s Mark V and can only do routing and shaping from above the table. The split fence that came with has been driving me crazy. The right side of the fence does line up square there is 1/16 to 1/8th tilt in the fence, and there is no solution to fix it. Its actually in the stud and or the circular locking collar. When you think you have it all lined up, as you tighten the screw, it goes out of alignment.

Does anyone have some plans to make a router fence?

I can understand the locking collar screw tightening pulling the fence, but it should be pulling it square, not 'out' of square. Has it been dropped or somehow bent? It there a burr on the cylinder or the bore? Is the wood face secured squarely to the sliding portion? Is it a '500' or 505+ version?

tonypanzica wrote:I have a mid 1980s Mark V and can only do routing and shaping from above the table. The split fence that came with has been driving me crazy. The right side of the fence does line up square there is 1/16 to 1/8th tilt in the fence, and there is no solution to fix it. Its actually in the stud and or the circular locking collar. When you think you have it all lined up, as you tighten the screw, it goes out of alignment.

Does anyone have some plans to make a router fence?

If I remember correctly, the two sides of the split wood fence sometimes need shims (washers) where they attach to the metal. Once adjusted this fence should fit your needs.

In operation, the right fence is often set slightly long as compared to the left side. Remember, the feed should be from left to right - against the movement of the cutter.

Thanks for asking! I bought this on the used market, so it could have been dropped. It doesn't show any abuse at all. No kinks or dents. I used the other fence then clamped on a rather nice 3 layered wood fence. I used 3 pieces of 3/4 plywood, 1 full length and 2 others on each end cut at a 45 similar to the router fence. I then made trims using a round over bit with a guide. Worked great.

As to the fence and its needing washers, I will try that. I did sand down the post and mounting ring. So frustrating though. I wasted so much time thinking it was me. Its a 500. I knew nothing about the SS when I bought it, absolutely nothing. Only paid $700. The table, vacuum and all the blades and bits made it worth that alone. I have reworked the variable speed mechanism and the 6x48 inch sander. I have done maybe 10 hours of sanding alone already. What a dream sander! Since I have a nice table saw, won't be using the saw. It came with the jig saw, bandsaw, joiner planer, sander, router shaper,vacuum, 10+ blades, 3 dados and several shaping bits. I am thinking about having it rebuilt with the new switch and then upgrading to a double tilt. Not too sure its worth it. Might be better off buying a new one.
Will the accessories I have work on a new SS?

If you want to spend more time sleuthing it, remove the wood fence parts and then check the cast parts. That will tell you what you will need to shim and where. I doubt the wood parts are the cause, but tis possible.

If you do not intend to use it as a table saw, I think the power pro would be over kill(nice features, but over kill).

do you have an instruction sheet for the fence? Mine tells about shimming the wood fences.

Just completed an upgrade on my older SS (1955) Double Tilt to bring it to the new Mark 7. Because my machine is an older model I had to replace the bench tubes as part of the upgrade as the older tubes are one and seven-eights diameter and the newer tubes are one and three quarters. The cost of the tubes aren't cheap, but since I want to keep current I went with the upgrade. In all of my upgrades I think the upgrade to the new Power Pro headstock was the best money to date spent.

charlese wrote:do you have an instruction sheet for the fence? Mine tells about shimming the wood fences.

Yeah, mine too, sorta.

It reads as follows:

Note:

If the fence boards will not set parallel to each other, a slight one-time shimming will be necessary. To shim, loosen screws (25, Model 510; 10, Model 500). Insert pieces of masking tape between the back side of the boards and the face of the brackets. Then tighten the screws and check that the boards are parallel.

Now, is that valuable information or what?:rolleyes::)

elkhunter wrote:Just completed an upgrade on my older SS (1955) Double Tilt to bring it to the new Mark 7. Because my machine is an older model I had to replace the bench tubes as part of the upgrade as the older tubes are one and seven-eights diameter and the newer tubes are one and three quarters. The cost of the tubes aren't cheap, but since I want to keep current I went with the upgrade. In all of my upgrades I think the upgrade to the new Power Pro headstock was the best money to date spent.

Oh my! I had not considered that as a hindrance.

What are you going to do with the old tubes and end castings?

I think a shop deputy like adaptation would be something to consider.

[quote="dusty"]Yeah, mine too, sorta.

It reads as follows:

Note:

If the fence boards will not set parallel to each other, a slight one-time shimming will be necessary. To shim, loosen screws (25, Model 510]


Masking tape?!:eek: