Shopsmith Forums

Newbie here, but I have already seen a lot of talk about hammered paint.

I am not sure how hammered paint REALLY works. But I think there is something in it (maybe silicone) that reacts and causes the "hammered" look.

I needed to create this look for some items on vintage snowmobiles.

I added silicone to paint, while it kind of worked when added in sufficient quantity, it didn't cure properly.

Since I work with paint for a living, I started to think outside the box.

So, I left the reducer out of the paint, dropped my air pressure down and played with my gun settings.

PERFECT hammer finish!

So, if you use a paint gun you can go pick a metallic color at your favorite automotive paint store and create a hammer finish. Look for colors with fine metallic, not pearl.

Sorry, it will not work in a aerosol. You cannot adjust the amount of aerosol in custom aerosol fills, nor your pressure.

I actually have created a lot of colors for the vintage snowmobile crowd. If there is enough interest, I could do the same here.

Welcome, I'm new too.

So, is it like a thick orange peel ? Your instructor would fail you.

I remember being in the booth painting my truck in class doing fine, paint was flowing just perfect and the instructor steps up and tells me "it's not heavy enough !" I ended up with a hood long run right there where he said that, rest of the truck was perfect.

My observations re using the rustoleum hammered in the 'rattle can'.

The paint seems to be a mixture(hence the shake often instruction).

It contains fine metalic particles(powder).

When applied sufficiently heavy, the different parts separate creating the hammered appearance.

Since it needs to be applied heavy, it works best on a horizontal surface so as to prevent running/sagging. It can be moved to vertical after it 'sets' for a minute or two.

It sets up quite quickly, but that creates another problem. The separation that creates the hammered appearance will not occur if air circulation is excessive(windy).

Finally if applied too thin, the parts do not separate and results in a 'normal' to 'blotchy' appearance.

beatnik wrote:Welcome, I'm new too.

So, is it like a thick orange peel ? Your instructor would fail you.

I remember being in the booth painting my truck in class doing fine, paint was flowing just perfect and the instructor steps up and tells me "it's not heavy enough !" I ended up with a hood long run right there where he said that, rest of the truck was perfect.

Orange peel is what you get if applied too thin:(. When heavy enough you get a lot of random sized/shaped fish eye aka hammered. Assuming I know what fish eye is.

beatnik wrote:Welcome, I'm new too.

So, is it like a thick orange peel ? Your instructor would fail you.

Actually, I think my instructors would be proud! Matching the existing finish is what painting is all about!

When activated as a urethane, you will have a much more durable finish than what a aerosol will ever provide.

The problem with purchasing hammer finishes is that the color selection is quite limited.

My theory is that a lot of "hammer finishes" were not special paint at the time. They were actually low grade enamels, applied heavy to get coverage with minimal reducer in one coat by inexperienced painters to cover up minor defects. By using very fine metallic colors, it produced the hammer effect giving even more camouflage for casting/manufacturer defects.

That is exactly how I have been duplicating it.

Backwards engineering you might call it.

Or a "custom" finish!

[quote="JPG40504"] When heavy enough you get a lot of random sized/shaped fish eye aka hammered. Assuming I know what fish eye is.]


JPG,
I am guessing that you do. LOL

Having researched the "hammered paint". I am sure it does contain silicone. Nasty stuff to a painter. I think that today's hammer paint may be a lacquer? with silicone added which would be a fast drying paint. But also a thin paint when dry. Your comments would substantiate this. Since the average shop or paint store (including myself) cannot get or stock lacquer anymore we are handicapped to the color availability that is offered by specialty paint companies.

Like I said earlier, I did get enamel to react and spray with a hammered look but the amount of silicone that it took to do it was large and it didn't dry properly. I even sprayed silicone on the object first to see what that would do. Didn't react like I wanted.

I haven't really played with any more hammer finishes since I have duplicated it with my method. No silicone, no fuss, unlimited color choice, and I can activate my paint. Win win.

But I know that most of you probably want aerosol. Sorry, I can't help there.

That was meant as a joke, guess it didn't come across that way ?

beatnik,
Yes, I took it as a joke! LOL

Just expanded on it.

I had good success with the RustOlean Hammered spray can paints. I found I needed excellent light (outside and bright sun) and a soft touch when doing the spraying with light coats. I used my Power Coating oven set at 200 deg for 2 hours to bake this finish. I could not bake any other spray on paint without burning it. I recommend doing a sample part first to check the results. This worked much faster than power coating with a lot less effort.

billmayo wrote:I had good success with the RustOlean Hammered spray can paints. I found I needed excellent light (outside and bright sun) and a soft touch when doing the spraying with light coats. I used my Power Coating oven set at 200 deg for 2 hours to bake this finish. I could not bake any other spray on paint without burning it. I recommend doing a sample part first to check the results. This worked much faster than power coating with a lot less effort.

I painted my Shorty using Rustoleum Gray Hammered. I did the painting in July so all I had to do, to bake it, was set the pieces out on top of the block fence in the summer sun.