Shopsmith Forums

Commisioned trophy case.
32” wide, 30 1/2” high 11” deep
Adjustable oak shelving
Sliding glass doors.
Red oak carcass with red oak ply back.
Finish is 1 coat of 50/50 BLO & poly and two coats of 80% poly and 20% BLO followed by Paste wax.

This is one heavy box and with the 1/4” thick glass doors, it’s really heavy. It’s weight is the reason for the modified Freedomcleat on the back.
The top half of the cleat is placed 1/2” from the back. The lower half has a piece of 1.24 MM BB attached to engage the cleat.
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[ATTACH]25653[/ATTACH]

Very nice work. I especially like the note on the 45 degree hang slat "This side to the wall". Reminds one that that is an easy thing to screw-up - or let's say screw-up wrong!

I have a project for this Fall that will use the same 45 Deg. hanging board, and I see that you used pocket screws to mount it to the sides. Did you use your SS to make the pockets, or a Kreg jig?

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks Ziggy.
The hanger isn't a TRUE French Cleat. No 45's. It's a 'FREEDOM Cleat' Just straight lumber and BB. I was hesitant to make the 45's due to the weight. And a wide rabbet on the bottom piece might split with use.
The customer (with lots of lifting help I hope!) will hang the case on his wall. Hence the note.
I used the Kreg for the pocket holes. Handy little tool.

Gene, thanks for the name "French cleat". I knew it had a name, but couldn't pull it out of the hat this morning.

I got it on the weight issue, which is a worry.

I watched a SS demo many years ago in which the demonstrator made pocket holes with the SS, noting of course that the SS eliminated the need for expensive add-on jigs.

Once again, nice job.

Gene,

That’s a biggun fer sure. Looks strong (as in well built).


I did a quick online search in an effort to avoid asking and hoped to see visual examples, to no avail. So…

Do I understand correctly that a “Freedom cleat” has NO angle whatsoever?

If not, please explain the difference between this and a French cleat, and how it’s applied to hold the piece securely.

Thanks

Remove the glass, hang it, reinstall the glass.

What is a 'freedom' cleat?

I would have at least some angle other that 90.

Remember, a few years back when we had some sort of problem with the French? We had "Freedom fries", "Freedom cuffs", "Freedom kisses"...etc. Ergo, my "Freedom Cleat".

The nomenclature is my own invention. However, I can't take credit for the idea. A cabinet maker extraordinaire friend of mine used it to hang heavy commercial and home owner's cabinets.

Idcook, here is a definition and picture of a true French cleat.
My iteration is a full 4/4 piece of oak across the top of the back with a 1/2"X 1 spacer between it and the back. Pocket screws at the ends and glued to the overhanging underside of the top. The piece screwed to the wall is also 4/4 oak with a piece of Baltic Birch (BB) (slightly thinner than 1/2") glued to it. It's as wide as the oak plus an inch. When the oak is screwed to the studs, the BB faces out and engages the oak piece that is pocket screwed near the top of the case. The BB does not touch the spacer behind the upper piece. Close, though.
Imagine a 5" wide 4/4 with a 1/2" deep 1 1/4" wide dado through the middle of the width. Then, a rip cut through the middle of the dado. When you turn one piece over it mates with the other one. I used BB because it won''t split as easily as oak under stress.

Gene Howe wrote:Remember, a few years back when we had some sort of problem with the French? We had "Freedom fries", "Freedom cuffs", "Freedom kisses"...etc. Ergo, my "Freedom Cleat".

The nomenclature is my own invention. However I can't take credit for the idea. A cabinet maker extraordinaire friend of mine used it to hang heavy commercial and home owner's cabinets.

Here is a definition and picture of a true French cleat.

So what angle did you use?

Gene Howe wrote:Remember, a few years back when we had some sort of problem with the French? We had "Freedom fries", "Freedom cuffs", "Freedom kisses"...etc. Ergo, my "Freedom Cleat".

The nomenclature is my own invention. However, I can't take credit for the idea. A cabinet maker extraordinaire friend of mine used it to hang heavy commercial and home owner's cabinets.

Idcook, here is a definition and picture of a true French cleat.
My iteration is a full 4/4 piece of oak across the top of the back with a 1/2"X 1 spacer between it and the back. Pocket screws at the ends and glued to the overhanging underside of the top. The piece screwed to the wall is also 4/4 oak with a piece of Baltic Birch (BB) (slightly thinner than 1/2") glued to it. It's as wide as the oak plus an inch. When the oak is screwed to the studs, the BB faces out and engages the oak piece that is pocket screwed near the top of the case. The BB does not touch the spacer behind the upper piece. Close, though.
Imagine a 5" wide 4/4 with a 1/2" deep 1 1/4" wide dado through the middle of the width. Then, a rip cut through the middle of the dado. When you turn one piece over it mates with the other one. I used BB because it won''t split as easily as oak under stress.

Sorry, I’m still not getting something:

What’s to keep it from sliding off; its’ weight?

[quote="idcook"]Sorry, I’m still not getting something:

What’s to keep it from sliding off]

The 'wall' piece has a beveled top edge that is 'higher' at the outer edge. The case has a beveled piece across the top that is 'lower' at the outer bottom edge.

This provides a captive pair. The case can be lifted off, but will not slide off.

A similar arrangement can be repeated at the bottom to prevent the bottom from pulling away from the wall.

No it is not 'free' to fall!:D