Shopsmith Forums

New here, but read heating up issues so did a maintenance lube according to manual found in here...thank gentlemen. I'm trying to rip 2 X 4's and has never been an issue before. Running a 10 carbide blade. Case is getting mighty hot and noticed motor bogs down under the load. So I decreased my cutting depth to 7/8" and still bogs down the motor and the sheaves get WAY hot. The belt is slipping, this I know. Seems the motor is going south??? I took it apart and cleaned it out as well.

larc wrote:New here, but read heating up issues so did a maintenance lube according to manual found in here...thank gentlemen. I'm trying to rip 2 X 4's and has never been an issue before. Running a 10 carbide blade. Case is getting mighty hot and noticed motor bogs down under the load. So I decreased my cutting depth to 7/8" and still bogs down the motor and the sheaves get WAY hot. The belt is slipping, this I know. Seems the motor is going south??? I took it apart and cleaned it out as well.

Did you 'lube' the floating sheave on the motor shaft and not get oil on the face of the sheave?

Is a belt slipping, or is the motor stalling?

Did you adjust the tension on the poly-v belt(or Gilmer belt)?

Thanks for the reply. Yes to all and no to the oil on the face of the sheaves. I forgot to mention it is a 1962 (Brownie). I've had it for 10 years. I thought about it some more and started having issues when ripping walnut 4 quarter stock as well. Thought it was just frickin hard. Cut it down in 1985 and finally had a project for it. I took temp readings on the motor after 10 minutes of running and it was 140. Sheaves were 130. Damn to hot for such little time. I'm thinking I'll have to pull the motor and run it to the rebuild place to have it checked??

Cutting any hardwood on the Shopsmith requires a really sharp saw blade and a slower feed rate. Your problem seems normal to me as I found a newly sharpen saw blade did wonders for the cutting of hardwood. I found using different blade speeds can make a difference too. A proper table & fence to saw blade alignment helps too. A resharpen saw blade seems to cut better for me than a new from the package saw blade. I use belt conditioner on older belts to help prevent them from slipping too much.

Do you have a 9" blade on it?

Is it a 'steel' blade(not carbide)?

Ripping 2x is a chore for any saw. Are you using a rip blade, or a 'combo' blade?

What speed is set? Slower for more difficult tasks is preferable to elevated temps.

Those temps to not seem excessive for the task being performed.

If it has the original bearings, they may be contributing to this.

Are the 2x pinching the blade?

Not many answers there, but many relevant clues(questions).

I bought a used Delta 1HP TS and I had a .125 kirf rib blade on it, a Freud and sharp, used it on an other TS but dont know the HP, ribed fine it was slow ripping 2x4s on the Delta, used it on the other saw on cherry and walnut. no problem. I bought the identical blade in a thin kirf, a 32nd thinner, a world of difference, 25% thinner cut. FWIW

Thanks guys, I havn't put much thought into the blade...will purchase a new one. I've been using 10" but noticed the manual references 9"...odd duck for sure. I'll see if I can find one. No pinching and align the fence correctly, and running carbide combo. I will invest in a rip blade to see if that helps...can't hurt at this point. I'll have to make a jig to rip the 2 X 4's and accomplish that with the worm drive. I'll keep yall updated with what I find out.

IMO go with a thin kirf!!!

larc wrote:Thanks guys, I havn't put much thought into the blade...will purchase a new one. I've been using 10" but noticed the manual references 9"...odd duck for sure. I'll see if I can find one. No pinching and align the fence correctly, and running carbide combo. I will invest in a rip blade to see if that helps...can't hurt at this point. I'll have to make a jig to rip the 2 X 4's and accomplish that with the worm drive. I'll keep yall updated with what I find out.

A 10" will 'work' but you must always check to make sure it is clearing any under table metal. It was designed for a 9" blade which will not interfere with said metal.

P.S. IMHO if you plan on much ripping, get rip blade!

P.P.S. Since the blade position is 'adjustable', even the 9" need be checked for interference when setting up to make bevels etc..

I use 10" blades on my 55 Greenie no problems here.

I suspect the blade. Lesson learned, don't cheap out on the blade. A better blade that can be re-sharpened is a worthy investment. The cheap blades dull quickly and rarely are worth resharpening. It's a a false economy.

Make sure the arbor is clamping the blade tight enough as well. I have had that happen.