joedw00 wrote:OK should I wire the switch this way? Like you would a wall switch.
[ATTACH]25760[/ATTACH]
This picture scares me.
I do not know what you are trying to show us. Neither do I understand what you mean(for sure) by 'like a wall switch'.
My first concern would be how are you strain relieving the power cord as it enters the motor pan.
After it enters the motor pan, the wires should be long enough to reach the power switch. The green needs to not only be connected to the motor shell, but it should be the last wire to feel the strain of the cord being pulled out. i.e. it is the longest wire.
I would put ring terminals on the wires attached to the power switch.
As Rob already described, connect the hot(black) line cord wire and the hot(?) wire from the motor. Then either connect the neutral(white) line cord wire and motor neutral(white?) wires to the second pole of the power switch or connect them to each other by splicing etc..
Now about the power switch, it needs to be rated 20A at 115v. The switch shown is likely a single pole double throw switch. The extra terminal
may confuse the connections.
------green----------------------------------to motor shell
------black -----------------||---------------motor hot
------white -----------------||--------------motor neutral
or
------white-----------------/\---------------motor neutral
|| = normally open switch pole
/\ = splice
DO NOT solder the line cord wires to the internal start contact as indicated in your first pix. When the motor is not spinning, those contacts are essentially a dead short! Besides that the motor will not run.
Pay attention to which way the switch operates. The switch needs to be closed when the bat handle is 'up'(on) and open when the bat handle is down(off).