Shopsmith Forums

First, for those interested, I did do a search B4 starting this thread!!!!:)
I had to replace the cord on a 64 year old ER, after playing with the inner insulation on the cord the wire insulation is brittle and just disintegrates. I am assuming the cord from the switch to the motor is in the same shape. I pulled the cover where the cord goes in and found another cover and went no further. How much work is it to reconnect a new cord to the motor? Just 2 connector with screws?

Thanks guys but it is handled. Dug into it tonight after posting, just 2 screw terminals. I opened up one of the others, inner insulation is just as brittle, going to be changing the other cords and all the lines from the switches to the motors.

When doing the cord inspection on on of the ERs, they replaced the switch on one, it is an undersized as far as load goes. Found this, and since it is on the one that will be dedicated for a lathe, I thought this one would be real handy.
http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/ ... c-6324.htm

That is not the switch I would pick.

A simple on/off rated for a motor of what ever size you have would be better.

Also check how long the barrel is on the old switch and make sure what ever you get is at least that long. On my brothers machine we went to the hardware store in town and got a switch without having removed the original only to find the new one was to short. Returned it and had to pay a couple of bucks more to get what was needed.

Motor rated switch will have a larger contact area (in general).

Ed

Come to think of it I might have a switch laying around here some where, if I can find it you can have it. Might take me a few days to locate it so if you are in a hurry go to Ace.

Ed

Thanks guys, the switch is the right amps/voltage rating. obviously you did go to to the specs, my thought/question is, its an induction motor,is it wise to "jog" it??? Bad tolerance mood to night, so dont guess at the answer!!!!!!!!

reible wrote:That is not the switch I would pick.

A simple on/off rated for a motor of what ever size you have would be better.

Also check how long the barrel is on the old switch and make sure what ever you get is at least that long. On my brothers machine we went to the hardware store in town and got a switch without having removed the original only to find the new one was to short. Returned it and had to pay a couple of bucks more to get what was needed.

Motor rated switch will have a larger contact area (in general).

Ed

I dont want alienate you but read the hole post and ,forget it, it is beyond that, done, been there!!!

rbursek wrote:Thanks guys, the switch is the right amps/voltage rating. obviously you did go to to the specs, my thought/question is, its an induction motor,is it wise to "jog" it??? Bad tolerance mood to night, so dont guess at the answer!!!!!!!!

I didn't guess the first time. The first word I saw was "momentary" I didn't need to read farther

"Description: This is a momentary on-off-on toggle switch, meaning that when you pull the switch from the off position to one of the two on positions, it will only stay there as long as you hold it and then spring back. Momentary toggles are often used for winch controls, engine starters and other applications when you don&#8217]"

Since I was of no help to you I'll not add any thing farther to the post and my good will is also gone....... Now you have alienated me and you didn't have to.....

Ed

I dont want alienate you but read the hole post and ,forget it, it is beyond that, done, been there!!!
__________________
I dont want to alienate you!! That is why I put that disclaimer in!!!!
I just was asking, on an induction motor do you want to jog it?

reible wrote:I didn't guess the first time. The first word I saw was "momentary" I didn't need to read farther

"Description: This is a momentary on-off-on toggle switch, meaning that when you pull the switch from the off position to one of the two on positions, it will only stay there as long as you hold it and then spring back. Momentary toggles are often used for winch controls, engine starters and other applications when you don’t want the switch to be unintentionally left on........"

Since I was of no help to you I'll not add any thing farther to the post and my good will is also gone....... Now you have alienated me and you didn't have to.....

Ed

I dont see any of you stuff here!!!
http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/ ... c-6324.htm