Beginning of my Mark V restoration...

mdriver · Post by **mdriver** » Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:12 pm

Please see attached.
It's pretty obvious which is before and current! Haven't gotten real far yet though.
Only can work on it a little at a time.

Also,
I was looking through my paperwork that the previous owner had and came across this color front page. Pretty sweet!
I'm going with the same color scheme (as close as possible of course)
IMHO, Verde Green closely matches the darker green but any takers on the lighter shade on the headstock? Or maybe I have it backwards? Not very good with color differentiation.

Funny, my youngest son's (8) room is a very close match to the lighter shade. I will ask my wife if she sees it that way as well. May be a start.

Thanks,
Mark Driver

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Thu Sep 25, 2014 11:21 pm

That headstock is cleaning up nicely Mark! The brochure is the old "shop on a wall" idea. It seems like a good idea. I love the green paint scheme!

Dick

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:26 am

mdriver wrote:Please see attached.
It's pretty obvious which is before and current! Haven't gotten real far yet though.
Only can work on it a little at a time.

Also,
I was looking through my paperwork that the previous owner had and came across this color front page. Pretty sweet!
I'm going with the same color scheme (as close as possible of course)
IMHO, Verde Green closely matches the darker green but any takers on the lighter shade on the headstock? Or maybe I have it backwards? Not very good with color differentiation.

Funny, my youngest son's (8) room is a very close match to the lighter shade. I will ask my wife if she sees it that way as well. May be a start.

Thanks,
Mark Driver

Hammered silver is what I recall. For some reason age altered it to a dingy greenish reddish color.

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/hammered-spray

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:28 am

mdriver wrote:Please see attached.
It's pretty obvious which is before and current! Haven't gotten real far yet though.
Only can work on it a little at a time.

Also,
I was looking through my paperwork that the previous owner had and came across this color front page. Pretty sweet!
I'm going with the same color scheme (as close as possible of course)
IMHO, Verde Green closely matches the darker green but any takers on the lighter shade on the headstock? Or maybe I have it backwards? Not very good with color differentiation.

Funny, my youngest son's (8) room is a very close match to the lighter shade. I will ask my wife if she sees it that way as well. May be a start.

Thanks,
Mark Driver

Hammered silver is what I recall. For some reason age altered it to a strange greenish reddish yellowish color(not easy to describe:D).

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/hammered-spray

mdriver · Post by **mdriver** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 7:15 am

rjent:
Thanks!! It's slow going for sure. The headstock's in great shape thus far. Now that JPG has educated us in the difference, it's a "B" style.

Yeah I noticed that in the brochure. I was going to mention "all" of the green around the shop but was tired. Even the father's shirt is a green. The mom looks psycho though! Even for 1956. I like how the unit is plugged in and the father's hand is almost touching the saw blade. That manual was $0.10 and the ShopSmith sold for $298.50 at Johnson Hardware Co. Cadillac, MI. Budget terms as low as $30 down and $3/week! High for the time frame I'm sure.

JPG (hope I'm correct on the initials):
Thanks for the heads up. Now that I look closer, it does in fact appear silver.
Much like some of the restorations I've seen. See, I told ya'll not good at colors! Already showing signs of that.

Cool, now I can order paint in the near future. I find the "crevice/rounded" areas to be the hardest to sand. I stripped as much old paint off as possible. I am quickly figuring out what methods are best for me as well as what other folks have done or are doing.

Not sure what steps I'm going to take inside the headstock casting. It looks great but do want to keep any future oxidation down. I see the inside hard to tape off areas and prime and/or paint. What do most folks think??

The Quill spring was stretched out bad. Someone must have let it fly one too many times. Ordered a new spring w/ housing, installed and working beautifully now. All new bearing replacement and innards cleanup is on going as well.

I'll post more progress pictures soon.

Awesome forum.

Thanks,
Mark Driver

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 1:30 pm

I 'paint' the interior with self etching primer on aluminum castings. More an appearance thing that anything else. They just look better in pix!;)

For paint removal on aluminum parts I recommend citrustrip. More recent oem painted parts seem much more uncooperative re removal.

For steel parts, electrolysis does work well. Dual purpose! Rust and paint! Non destructive of unaffected areas.

I have recently begun questioning the advisability of total paint removal. I will be trying a different approach in the future(sanding smooth / painting over original if no rust issues).

Now if only the MVII was not wrinkled paint!:(

Tape/plug up all bores. Masking tape works fairly well as well as crumpled up newspaper. No magic bullets that I know of other than coating bores with a gell substance to prevent paint intrusion, but that involves later cleanup.(think lithium grease:D)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 3:02 pm

I made up a set of wooden plugs to protect all of the bores from paint. I made them slightly tapered and tapped them into place with a small plastic mallet.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 3:30 pm

dusty wrote:I made up a set of wooden plugs to protect all of the bores from paint. I made them slightly tapered and tapped them into place with a small plastic mallet.

Hmmmmm! Mental gears are turning! Thank You for a good idea!

lightnin · Post by **lightnin** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 4:51 pm

Tapered wooden plugs... Dusty, I like that concept... I will probably do that next time.
I painted two head stocks and two carriages and miscellaneous other parts with holes so far.
I rolled up thin cardboard the kind that comes on the back of a pad of paper.
I sanded out the inside with flap wheels afterwords.

Tapered wooden plugs gives me an excuse ... ahhh... reason to do some lathe work.

Mark, decide if your gonna use wooden plugs before you take it apart so you can make them.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:08 pm

lightnin wrote:Tapered wooden plugs... Dusty, I like that concept... I will probably do that next time.
I painted two head stocks and two carriages and miscellaneous other parts with holes so far.
I rolled up thin cardboard the kind that comes on the back of a pad of paper.
I sanded out the inside with flap wheels afterwords.

Tapered wooden plugs gives me an excuse ... ahhh... reason to do some lathe work.

Mark, decide if your gonna use wooden plugs before you take it apart so you can make them.

Only if you prefer to do them on a lathe. I first cut circles on the band saw to the approximate size and then (with the help of a quick jig) sanded them to the proper size on the belt sander. I got the taper by tilting the table on the belt sander after the "plugs" had been sanded down so that they were just a tiny bit over sized for the hole.

When I get back to my own computer, I'll post a sketch of the belt sanding jig.

[ATTACH]26288[/ATTACH]

This whole thing sits on the belt sander table and the table is tilted to get the desired taper. I used a small screw, through a pre-drilled hole in the plug and into the jig, around which to rotate the plug. This could very well be done free hand.

The belt sander table is adjustable both for tilt and for proximity to the belt. This works well for tweaking the size of the plug.