Shopsmith Forums

I would greatly appreciate your assistance. I need a measurement.

With the quill fully retracted, with carriage moved all the way to the left against the headstock, with the table set square to the blade, with the table set for maximum depth of cut, with a thin kerf saw blade mounted on a saw arbor -- measure the distance from the saw blade (the plate) to the right edge of the miter slot to the right of the blade.

[ATTACH]26318[/ATTACH]

I expect this measurement to be something on the order of 4 15/64". Please take your measurements as accurately as possible with whatever instrumentation you have.

If you are making this measurement on a 500 table, please indicate that in your response. Obviously, your measurement will then be different that stated above (I think).

As previously stated, your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Dusty
I measured mine by using an adjustable square and measured the distance from the blade to the left side of the slot by putting the frame of the square in the slot and sliding the blade of the square up to the saw blade and measured the length of the square's blade using a digital caliper.
That measured 3.375 inches.
I then measured the miter slot at .735 inches
The total is 4.11"
My saw blade body is .090 inches
My total measurement from the saw blade body to the right side of the miter slot is about .124 different from yours.
Also my machine is different in that it started life as a 500 and was upgraded to a 510 and then a 520 and then to a PP headstock.
The PP headstock was purchased from SS completely assembled. Some of the difference may be attributable to compression of the spacer ring or a home made spacer being used to position the carriage.
Hope this is enough and plain enough.
Bill V

Thank you, Bill.

I would expect this to vary greatly, but nominally the table model should not matter, as they all have the same miter slot to blade opening dimension.

Quill stop bumper, carriage to headstock spacer, arbor dimensions and position on quill shaft as well as collar positioning may all affect that dimension.

On my Mark 7, 4.176 inches as measured by my Wixey digital caliper...

Dusty, it looks like I am the only one who can't follow your directions::(

[ATTACH]26366[/ATTACH]

I have a SS ripping blade on the SS arbor, the quill is fully retracted, I tried to move the carriage against the [edit: PowerPro] headstock, but the blade hit the table first.

This is a 520 - can you re-direct my setup?

Forrest

forrestb wrote:Dusty, it looks like I am the only one who can't follow your directions::(

[ATTACH]26366[/ATTACH]

I have a SS ripping blade on the SS arbor, the quill is fully retracted, I tried to move the carriage against the [edit: PowerPro] headstock, but the blade hit the table first.

This is a 520 - can you re-direct my setup?

Forrest

Forrest, it looks like your machine is missing the "Carriage Stop Ring", item #189 on this exploded view. The part number is 516667, and the price is $2.99 from the mother ship.

I believe that some people make their own out of split PVC pipe.

Mine ripped some long time ago, so I made substitutes to allow me to put the blade where I want it for various purposes:

[ATTACH]26367[/ATTACH]

So without it, I literally went "against the headstock" not against the stop ring.

Without the rubber stop ring I guess my measurement is not useful.

Forrest

forrestb wrote:Mine ripped some long time ago, so I made substitutes to allow me to put the blade where I want it for various purposes:

[ATTACH]26367[/ATTACH]

So without it, I literally went "against the headstock" not against the stop ring.

Without the rubber stop ring I guess my measurement is not useful.

Forrest

I like your version -- it looks like the positioning would be more repeatable than with the rubber ring.

For instance, I have one that positions the blade to the very left of the standard insert. That allows me to have fairly good dust collection (at least, better than a ZCI) and still cut off a thin strip without worrying about the strip going 'down the tube.'

Hmm. I think the dado insert would be better - just have to mill out a place for the riving knife.

Thanks to Dusty and Dennis for making me think - again.

Forrest