Frustration with the 3 lever drill press handle

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

eartigas
Gold Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:10 pm
Location: Carmel, NY

Frustration with the 3 lever drill press handle

Post by eartigas »

I would like to share a problem I had with this handle. I needed to remove it from one Mark 5 to install it in another unit and two out of the three handles plastic handles rotated over the metal shaft and the force was not enough to unscrew them.

They were not too tight as they were hand tightened but 2 out of three slipped over the metal rod and I have to use pliers to undo them.

Did anybody experience the same issue?

Looking at them now, I realize they are not the best quality but I bought them from Shopsmith.

For reference, this is what I am talking about.

555491 3 Lever Drill Press Quill Handle
Ed
Carmel, NY
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21371
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

eartigas wrote:I would like to share a problem I had with this handle. I needed to remove it from one Mark 5 to install it in another unit and two out of the three handles plastic handles rotated over the metal shaft and the force was not enough to unscrew them.

They were not too tight as they were hand tightened but 2 out of three slipped over the metal rod and I have to use pliers to undo them.

Did anybody experience the same issue?

Looking at them now, I realize they are not the best quality but I bought them from Shopsmith.

For reference, this is what I am talking about.

555491 3 Lever Drill Press Quill Handle
I have two of the single handle versions and one with three handles. They are all over 25 years old and none of the plastic handles slip.

It seems as though that would be easy to fix.Can you remove the plastic handles completely? If you can, a bit of apoxy inside the plastic handle should be the trick.

If you cannot remove the plastic, repair will be more involved. I would drill a hole in the end of the plastic and force an epoxy into the handle through that hole. It won't take much.

However, there might be another way. Shorten the metal handles and put the plastic back on. The shorter handles would clear the underside of the main table and thus never be obstructed.

see other thread about quill handles
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34643
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

IIWM, a call to CS would be on my agenda!

Due to the intended purpose of those handles slipping plastic on the shaft is unacceptable(IMHO).

I much prefer the older design(M5). I do not like the MVII handles either.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
eartigas
Gold Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:10 pm
Location: Carmel, NY

Post by eartigas »

Thanks. I thought of a few solutions and one of them was removing the plastic, threading the end and putting screw on ball handles.

Still, I was wondering if this happened only to me.

I also found Mc Master has all sorts of handles in red and black so I may replace them altogether with new handles of my like.

Epoxy is an option but I don't think it is worth for the plasticky levers, I rather get something nicer.

CS remains an option but I may get more of the same, I rather think in "new and improved".

Stay tuned as whenever I have some free time I'll have a deep look into this problem. I have three 10ER requiring my immediate attention first. : ))

PS: Before anybody asks, the three handle lever was used and still is in the MARK 5s, not the 10ERs.
Ed
Carmel, NY
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34643
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

eartigas wrote:Thanks. I thought of a few solutions and one of them was removing the plastic, threading the end and putting screw on ball handles.

Still, I was wondering if this happened only to me.

I also found Mc Master has all sorts of handles in red and black so I may replace them altogether with new handles of my like.

Epoxy is an option but I don't think it is worth for the plasticky levers, I rather get something nicer.

CS remains an option but I may get more of the same, I rather think in "new and improved".

Stay tuned as whenever I have some free time I'll have a deep look into this problem. I have three 10ER requiring my immediate attention first. : ))

PS: Before anybody asks, the three handle lever was used and still is in the MARK 5s, not the 10ERs.
I'd like to see you try getting that 5/8" hub on those 3/4" shafts.:D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
algale
Platinum Member
Posts: 4796
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:13 am

Post by algale »

My single handle quill feed lever likewise suffers from a plastic handle that spins when I go to tighten it. Will epoxy stick to the plastic from which the handle is made? I may try turning a handle from a wood scrap and epoxying it on. I've seen a couple of Shopsmiths where the plastic grips have been replaced with wood and they look pretty snazzy to me.
User avatar
fjimp
Platinum Member
Posts: 2345
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:45 pm
Location: Lakewood, Colorado

Post by fjimp »

I have removed a couple of plastic quill handles then roughed up shaft with a bench grinder and sanded inside of plastic handle and applied CA glue inside handle. After reassembling allow to cure for a couple of days. So far neither has worked loose again. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
eartigas
Gold Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:10 pm
Location: Carmel, NY

Post by eartigas »

Well, I see I am not alone here!

Thanks for the tips and for sharing.

Time will tell how this will work out.

BTW what tread size and tpi is the hole in the hub where the handles screw in?
Ed
Carmel, NY
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34643
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

eartigas wrote:Well, I see I am not alone here!

Thanks for the tips and for sharing.

Time will tell how this will work out.

BTW what tread size and tpi is the hole in the hub where the handles screw in?
3/8 - 16. ......
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
nuhobby
Platinum Member
Posts: 2327
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:34 am
Location: Indianapolis

Post by nuhobby »

I used Gorilla Glue on my 2007 Mark V's handle, not long after buying the thing. It's been solid ever since.
Chris
Post Reply