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I'd say to do the same with the jointer blade. It seems to me that approach is a little overkill, but you might get better results that way.ibskot wrote: Do ya'll go directly into the jointer with this approach or then onto honing? My plane blade I go from 1k, 4k, 8k them to leather strop with green stuff.
thanks.
This was my thought on turning tools. I can get a really nice surface from a bowl grind from a low speed grinder (not Tormek). On flat work all my surfaces get hand planed anyway.terrydowning wrote:IMO
There is a huge difference in sharpening edges for power driven cutters and hand tools. (A lathe chisel is in fact a power driven cutting edge BTW)
It's all about cutting inches, blade material and impact.
For Machine driven edges I don't see a need to hone like you do for hand tools. The impact is too hard due to the force of the power driven cutter, cutting angle, amount of inches cut between sharpenings etc.
Add to this the fact that most power driven edges are harder HSS and just will not take as keen of an edge as the W1 or O1 steel on most hand tools.
The farthest I go on "honing" on power driven cutters is to run a coarse diamond stone (One of the credit card sized ones) across the edge. I touch them up occasionally between sharpenings.
Just how I do it, and my thoughts on the subject.
Did you forget something?:rolleyes:robinson46176 wrote:I stumbled on this doing some grinding research and remembered this thread. Thought it might be of interest to some. Look at the nice blade holding jigs in post #25.
I have some wet grinding equipment that I was looking at tool holder ideas for. It is actually lapidary equipment but will serve me well for wet tool grinding.
JPG wrote:Did you forget something?:rolleyes:
JPG wrote:ibskot wrote:Thanks, I will.
Stupid question.... when I look at pics it looks like the disk is rotating towards the edge of the bade being sharpened. Doesn't this pose a safety risk? Obviously it works as people do it. Also, how long does it take? Thanks
The 'line' of contact with the conical disk is on a vertical line passing through the central axis of the disk. Therefore there is a slight clearance at the periphery of the disk. However there is some risk here! One must make sure their body parts do not come in contact with the spinning disk!!!
Secret is to grind a small amount at a time. That prevents over heating, and minimizes amount of material being made into fine powder.
Notice there are two handles. Place one hand upon each handle!! That helps keep them 'out of harm's way'.
It is important to keep any obstructions away from the path the jig slides on. Also maintain contact with both the table top and the fence.
This can get a bit 'tricky' since the fence tends to get in the way, hence the long handles.
Bill mentioned it, but to make sure you understand it, the blades must be flush against the bottom of the 'slot'. A spring on the clamping screws has a tendency to prevent that(IIRC, I made mine, and do not have the SS version).
Realize the grind angle will be determined by the table tilt. FWIW, the conical disk is closer to about 3.3° than 4°. I believe the jig angle is 45°.
How long depends upon how many passes and dexterity in changing the blades in the jig. I recommend a slow attack the first time using it.
One caveat! Tis far too easy to increase the amount of grind(quill feed) too much. So take teeny tiny quill advancement steps!!! Helps prevent over heating and excessive material being converted to steel powder.
P.S. Dennis snuck in here as I was hunt n pecking this!
