520 fence alignment

magoo · Post by **magoo** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:05 pm

Not having room to use the individual power tools for the past 10 years, sold most of them and purchased a 2000 520 and went through the cleaning, waxing, lubing, setup, & adjustments. So far am impressed with this machine and adjustments were straight forward and not difficult until I got to the fence alignment. This is my first SS and first post on this forum.

Originally fence would be square, then cock left about 1/4" when bottom lever (front lock) was engaged. After loosening the top screws and locking it in straight it still cocks about 1/8" in the same direction. It appears that the adjustments are used up in that direction. Going the other way can get a good 1/2" out of alignment. I have gotten good results from locking the top lever (rear lock) first, but this requires a little fiddling with the levers as the bottom lever blocks the top lever from being fully engaged until the bottom lever is pushed half way down so seems backwards, but whatever works. Visually I can see no reason. Externally the fence doesn't appear to be bent. The pads do not appear worn, but there is some gap there when not locked. The machine appears in excellent shape except for the fence which does show signs of possible abuse and had to file several nicks & gouges to make it smooth. Are there any internal adjustments? I hesitate to take it apart for fear it will never go back together (I hate springs).

My first (and only so far) project was to build a simple box from scrap plywood to hold all the misc. items and was able to get the fence aligned manually so all the cuts were on the money, smooth, and with no binding so the fence can be set, just not as easy as I was expecting.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:12 pm

I must reread your post and obsorb the details but while I am getting around to that I must say one thing. This is a 520 rip fence. Lock the lower lever first. That should square the fence with the front rail. Only after it is square should it be locked (with the upper lever) to the rear rail.

Inspect the rear locking lever to make sure that it is not distorted in some way.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:25 pm

On the 520 the fence may "pull" when the lower lock handle is engaged. (normal) When this happens the clamp on the fence pulls the fence into alignment with the front rails and the fence should be parallel to the miter slots. If the fence is not parallel to the slots this is the only time the fence should be adjusted.
When you use the fence press the bottom lever until the fence pulls into alignment and if you need to adjust the fence left or right release the lever and put light pressure against the fence casting pushing it against the front rail and slide it left or right as required.
If the fence is parallel to the table slots but not to the blade then the table needs to be adjusted.
Check to see if all of the nylon glide blocks are in place on the fence casting. The blocks ride against the front rail.
It is possible that you have some mismatched components IE a table from one time period and a fence from another. This may cause a SLIGHT misalignment but no where 1/2 inch
We like Pictures. Lots of 'em
Bill V

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:55 pm

Yes, I agree with Bill completely.

His post reminds me that I actually apply pressure against the front of the rip fence, pushing it tight against the front rail, before I lock the lower lever.

At this point I expect the fence to be parallel to the miter slots. If not, correction as previously described is required.

I do not expect the fence to move AT ALL when the upper lever is locked.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:19 pm

wa2crk wrote: . . .
It is possible that you have some mismatched components IE a table from one time period and a fence from another. This may cause a SLIGHT misalignment but no where 1/2 inch
We like Pictures. Lots of 'em
Bill V

There are different 520 fences and rails?

magoo · Post by **magoo** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:44 pm

Thank you both for responding. You have confirmed what I thought that the bottom lever should be locked first. I may have discovered something, but not sure. The nylon rub blocks appear to be in good shape, however there is a small gap between them and the front rail. With the alignment adjustment all the way to right and a playing card shimmed in the gap between the nylon bushing on the right and the front rail, the fence locked straight using the bottom lever. Maybe the nylon blocks are worn more than they appear? Are these replaceable or is there a home made remedy? The fence may very well have been damaged also. If the thickness of a playing card could make 1/8" difference on the other end, could never see it with the naked eye.

algale · Post by **algale** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:50 pm

magoo wrote:Thank you both for responding. You have confirmed what I thought that the bottom lever should be locked first. I may have discovered something, but not sure. The nylon rub blocks appear to be in good shape, however there is a small gap between them and the front rail. With the alignment adjustment all the way to right and a playing card shimmed in the gap between the nylon bushing on the right and the front rail, the fence locked straight using the bottom lever. Maybe the nylon blocks are worn more than they appear? Are these replaceable or is there a home made remedy? The fence may very well have been damaged also. If the thickness of a playing card could make 1/8" difference on the other end, could never see it with the naked eye.

I suggest you post a few photos of what you are seeing. If we can't see what you are dealing with, diagnosing this is going to be more difficult.

Your message suggests there is a gap between one of the nylon glide blocks and the front rail when the lock is engaged. This should not be.

Try this. Unlock both locks and loosen all four of the top allen scews that hold the fence's aluminum extrusion to the fence's base casting. Now push that casting flush against the front rail. Are you now getting simultaneous contact on both nylon glide blocks and the front rail?

If both nylon glide blocks cannot touch the front rail simultaneously, either (a) one or both of the glide blocks is bad/damaged, (b) the fence's base casting itself is bad/damaged or (c) the front rail is bad/damaged.

magoo · Post by **magoo** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:24 pm

Let me work on getting the photos. I took some, but they were too big to upload & couldn't downsize them on the iPad. Will have to load them on the PC into a photo editor to downsize if I can remember how that computer works.

Thanks again for the responses.

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:53 pm

magoo wrote:Let me work on getting the photos. I took some, but they were too big to upload & couldn't downsize them on the iPad. Will have to load them on the PC into a photo editor to downsize if I can remember how that computer works.

Thanks again for the responses.

The easiest way is to just create a photobucket account. When you upload them they will be automatically sized when you copy their address for pasting into a forum.

If you need help let me know.

Dick

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:00 am

JPG wrote:There are different 520 fences and rails?

Pictures, please. I know the rails are different (with and without magnetic strip for the ruler) but are the fences interchangeable/different?