Shopsmith Forums

What is the difference between the molding head for a Mark V vs the Mark 7? Thinking of getting one from the bay?..
As always, thanks for the input.

Chris

ChrisNeilan wrote:What is the difference between the molding head for a Mark V vs the Mark 7? Thinking of getting one from the bay?..
As always, thanks for the input.

Chris

Viewing this page from the Shopsmith online catalog, I would say there is a difference.

However, read the notes in the attached link. Apparently Shopsmith molder heads are not all alike. This raises the question: Are all Shopsmith Molder Knives interchangeable?

Aaaah They are not. Again checking the online catalog, there is a difference. Shopsmith changed the design in September 2011. What is available from EBay deserves scrutiny.

dusty wrote:Viewing this page from the Shopsmith online catalog, I would say there is a difference.

However, read the notes in the attached link. Apparently Shopsmith molder heads are not all alike. This raises the question: Are all Shopsmith Molder Knives interchangeable?

Aaaah They are not. Again checking the online catalog, there is a difference. Shopsmith changed the design in September 2011. What is available from EBay deserves scrutiny.

Has anyone determined just what the difference is between the new and the old knives?

I would think almost all on e-bay would be the older version.

Beware this 'tool' can be an accident waiting to happen if not used with care!!!

Some folks close by have declared they will never use it 'again'.

Those large cutters will throw a board more effectively than any kick back with a saw with teeny tiny teeth.

A shaper will do almost the same thing, just not as 'smooth'.

P.S. I believe the older knives will fit all the older heads be they steel or aluminum.

JPG wrote:Those large cutters will throw a board more effectively than any kick back with a saw with teeny tiny teeth.

A shaper will do almost the same thing, just not as 'smooth'.

So a shaper doesn't cut as smoothly as a molder or a shaper kickback is less effective?

JPG wrote:Has anyone determined just what the difference is between the new and the old knives?

I would think almost all on e-bay would be the older version.

Beware this 'tool' can be an accident waiting to happen if not used with care!!!

Some folks close by have declared they will never use it 'again'.

Those large cutters will throw a board more effectively than any kick back with a saw with teeny tiny teeth.

A shaper will do almost the same thing, just not as 'smooth'.

P.S. I believe the older knives will fit all the older heads be they steel or aluminum.

I have an upcoming project where I am going to be milling about a thousand linear feet of beadboard out of rough-sawn cherry. After planing and jointing, my plan was to cut the T&G on a 3HP router table, and then add the bead with my SS molder head (which I haven't used yet). Should I be thinking about getting some Board Buddies or some such to use with the molder?

Yea, I know that is a lot of milling for a small home shop. But buying that much cherry beadboard would cost about $3,000. I bought the rough-sawn cherry for $300.

beeg wrote:So a shaper doesn't cut as smoothly as a molder or a shaper kickback is less effective?

Yes.. Yes..

Outer radius is relevant to both issues. Larger radius gives smoother cut. Larger radius makes for a more effective launcher.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I have an upcoming project where I am going to be milling about a thousand linear feet of beadboard out of rough-sawn cherry. After planing and jointing, my plan was to cut the T&G on a 3HP router table, and then add the bead with my SS molder head (which I haven't used yet). Should I be thinking about getting some Board Buddies or some such to use with the molder?

Yea, I know that is a lot of milling for a small home shop. But buying that much cherry beadboard would cost about $3,000. I bought the rough-sawn cherry for $300.

Beading is a fairly shallow cut. Something to maintain the contact to the table/fence will help the consistency of the cut.

I would use the molder for that.

I think the molder has less of a tendency to burn(important with cherry). You run it slower than a shaper.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I have an upcoming project where I am going to be milling about a thousand linear feet of beadboard out of rough-sawn cherry. After planing and jointing, my plan was to cut the T&G on a 3HP router table, and then add the bead with my SS molder head (which I haven't used yet). Should I be thinking about getting some Board Buddies or some such to use with the molder?

Yea, I know that is a lot of milling for a small home shop. But buying that much cherry beadboard would cost about $3,000. I bought the rough-sawn cherry for $300.

I have used Board Buddies along with SS finger boards to hold material securely to the fence. I have used both shaper (SS and my stand alone) and the SS and Craftsmen molding heads on my SS. I have never had a problem. Proper speed is important on the SS, of course, as well taking light cuts, which is true for almost any shaping/routing system.

Regardless of whether you have the new or the old style Shopsmith molding head, Shopsmith still sells the knives for both of them. They are not interchangeable. You must purchase the correct knives for the model that you have. I have the older one along with every knife set that Shopsmith sells for it.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I have an upcoming project where I am going to be milling about a thousand linear feet of beadboard out of rough-sawn cherry. After planing and jointing, my plan was to cut the T&G on a 3HP router table, and then add the bead with my SS molder head (which I haven't used yet). Should I be thinking about getting some Board Buddies or some such to use with the molder?

Yea, I know that is a lot of milling for a small home shop. But buying that much cherry beadboard would cost about $3,000. I bought the rough-sawn cherry for $300.

Hi Dennis,
The Board Buddies are a decent way to hold down a board, but they do have their limitations. Are they going to extend out far enough to put pressure on the board where you need it when molding? When shaping I think they are fine, but if molding, I might think about getting the attachment arm which makes them one unit rather than two pieces attached to the fence.

My questions is, why not use a router beading bit? That Triton will cut through most anything and the finish will be NICE:D . Set up a fence tall enough to handle your boards and then double (or triple stack) feather boards. You could even buy your Board Buddies (never can have enough doohickeys and thingamajigs), then mount them to hold the boards vertically against the tall fence.

Just a thought.

Be well,
Ben