dado

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justtim561
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dado

Post by justtim561 »

Me again, glad this is a place for answers!! what size dado can be used on the SS?
ibskot
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Post by ibskot »

6 inch or 8 inch. I think the shopsmith branded stuff is 6 inch nut many here use 8 inch without incident.
SS Mark V (1983 from Grandfather) upgraded to a 510, pieces to make a 500 mini, SS bandsaw, belt sander, broken scroll saw, and strip sander, Jet VS Mini Lathe, and tons of Lee Valley and vintage Stanley planes. Woodcraft slow speed grinder and a German made Tormek wannabe. Ridgid TS 3650 Table Saw, General 80-075LM Jointer.
wodnek
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Post by wodnek »

You can use the wobble type or the chipper type, although i like the chipper type better.
The sickness is spreading:
Mark V greenie 1954
Mark V goldie 1962 (I think)
Mark V grey 1978
Shopsmith attachments: 2 Jig Saws, Bandsaw, Jointer, Planer. Shaper tooling, many adapters, arbors, etc.

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50s vintage Craftsman band saw
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Max width about 7/8" IIRC.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG wrote:Max width about 7/8" IIRC.
I can't imagine wanting to do a wider dado than that on the Shopsmith but is the capacity of the arbor the primary limiting factor?
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Gene Howe
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Post by Gene Howe »

Tim, I use an 8" without a problem. However, I wish I had bought the 6". For my uses, the 8" offers no advantages.
Gene

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justtim561
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Location: Bloomfield Indiana

Dado

Post by justtim561 »

Thank you guys, very helpful!
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rjent
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Pro Planer vs. Planer

Post by rjent »

I am trying to decide as to how important the stand and operation of the Pro Planer is compared to the SS mounted planer. I am in the market for a SS planer, and am having a hard time deciding which way to go.

If anyone would please give some justifications for either or both types it would be appreciated. I assume the SS mounted one is pretty heavy? Heavier than the jointer? Or do I just go with a lunch box planer?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have read a lot of information on these units here on the forum, and still can't decide which way to go..... :(

In my active looking I have found both types. Most are reasonable in price.

Oh, and can I get a Pro Planer into a regular sedan? (Ford Fusion Hybrid)

Thanks! :D

Dick
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

The ss mount: has an aluminum table(lighter), is limited by the 1 1/8 hp motor but has variable speed.

The stand mount will have a larger motor which allows running at a faster rpm and has a cast iron table. IIRC the original motor was 1.5 hp and the 'upgrade' moved up to a 1 3/4 hp motor and faster rpm.

Some were manual feed.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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reible
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Post by reible »

Dado blades, I have both the wobble and the stacked. Both are 8", the wobble I had from way back when I had a rockwell table saw.

Wobble blades can produce a slightly rounded bottom on cuts and this can be undesirable when the joint is exposed. There are different models that minimize this effect and of course doing a stopped dado can hind the issue. I've resorted to using a router to do the clean up or do use as the main tool for the job.

The stacked set I have is nice but you do have little bat ears from the outside blades, again this varies from blade to blade. The new sets have added chippers that make cutting for undersized plywood a lot easier, my set requires spacers to get a better fit which works but if I were to get a new set I would spend the extra money for that feature.

I personally like the 8" versions because it gives me a deeper cut when I need it. If you ever use a sliding table on your saw you will see how much less of a depth you have with 6" versions.... Yes the 6" will work and yes it is cheaper but I have done enough jobs that needed the 8" to make me want to pay that extra.

All of this comes down to just one thing, what do you want to do with the dado blade?

I would say I will never buy a cheap version, I hate cheap blades of any kind. If you have the money I'd look at top of the line blades. Save up if necessary it will be worth it.

Make sure you get the proper arbor from shopsmith for your saw and for a dado blade. I keep my dado mounted on an arbor at all times.

Ed
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