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To adjust the chain so the table is flat and true I don't pull the pins on the sprockets, I just loosen that 5th sprocket that sets chain tension, right?

fitzhugh wrote:To adjust the chain so the table is flat and true I don't pull the pins on the sprockets, I just loosen that 5th sprocket that sets chain tension, right?

Yep!!!!

Loose enough so you can turn the sprocket without moving the other sprockets via the chain.

Realistically the chain needs to be removed from them all.(JMHO)

Definitely do not pull the pins!!!!!!!:eek:

I would eliminate that jack screw slop first.

Thanks.

I got rid of the play in the table. It was just the nut on the bottom of the threaded shaft. Tightened just enough so there is no more play but not any more or it seems to make it harder to change the height. Small adjustment.

I put a small broken drill bit upside down in the drill chuck and used it to slide under the tie bars and measure the difference between when one side no longer cleared and the other. Measuring by feeler gauge I found one end has the table .0083 inches higher on one side than the other. The other end has a difference of .02 inches. That's a nice simple 5 sprockets at .004" per sprocket. The other end has a difference of .0083 inches, or just over 2 sprockets. I double checked by measuring the angle of the crank for each point and got .02 inches for the first, a perfect match, and .0078 vs .0083 for the other, a difference well within the smallest amount it can be changed, so 2 sprockets it is.

I am once again impressed by how these things are designed and made and equally impressed at the help found on this forum.

I'll post a report on the suffering I encounter trying to adjust the sprockets., not starting that one tonight.

fitzhugh wrote:Thanks.

I got rid of the play in the table. It was just the nut on the bottom of the threaded shaft. Tightened just enough so there is no more play but not any more or it seems to make it harder to change the height. Small adjustment.

I put a small broken drill bit upside down in the drill chuck and used it to slide under the tie bars and measure the difference between when one side no longer cleared and the other. Measuring by feeler gauge I found one end has the table .0083 inches higher on one side than the other. The other end has a difference of .02 inches. That's a nice simple 5 sprockets at .004" per sprocket. The other end has a difference of .0083 inches, or just over 2 sprockets. I double checked by measuring the angle of the crank for each point and got .02 inches for the first, a perfect match, and .0078 vs .0083 for the other, a difference well within the smallest amount it can be changed, so 2 sprockets it is.

I am once again impressed by how these things are designed and made and equally impressed at the help found on this forum.

I'll post a report on the suffering I encounter trying to adjust the sprockets., not starting that one tonight.

You may want to recheck the tightness of all 4 nuts after the sprockets are synced. If not synced, a tight nut may be binding the jack screw.

When correct, height adjustment is quite smooth and easy. That assumes clean threads etc.!!!