Beall 3-On Mandrel Buffing System
Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:32 pm
Good day,
I've owned my VERY used ShopSmith for 10 years. It had no serial # plate, so I can't date it exactly, but it's a rough gray, so I'm guessing c. '84. It'd already been upgraded w/ polyV belt and dbl. bearing quill. My only eBay purchase, it was in GREAT shape, all specs. were w/in tolerances and greased to prevent rust. Included were the scroll and band saws, the belt sander, planer, and joiner. A slew of parts and all manuals, plus all orig. accessories and tools. As a hobby-guy, I make a variety of woodworking stuff (pens, cabinetry, furniture, crafts) and have no set schedule or production 'pressure'.
I've lurked and learned on this forum for years, and have recently been enjoying Nick's video productions (kudos to SS for hiring this VERY talented woodworker and teacher)! I also peruse other popular woodworking sites and subscribe to their mags, as well.
The Beall 3-On Mandrel Buffing System is a 3/4 inch steel mandrel with a #2 Morse taper-drive on one end and a cupped end on the other to accept a cone center. I bought one from WoodCraft (and can still return it) to see if I (or some of you) can figure how to SAFELY drive the thing on our SSmiths.
The ends are too large (5/8 inch) to put into the drill chuck, or I woulda already been polishing my fool head off. After chatting with SS tech support (very helpful in the past) and the folks at Beall, I understand there are no adapters available nor in R&D (no big surprise there...) I have not the tools to turn a half inch tenon on the morse taper end, but I could take it to a local machine shop to do that (pricey, tho).
I own a 4 jaw chuck (I'm starting to turn bowls) and I'm wondering what y'all think of this idea. I chuck the morse taper end into the jaws of the chuck using a leather or rubber 'liner'. This liner would prevent metal to metal contact (I don't wanna crack of goof-up any parts, certainly.) And, as the chuck will only grip a small section of the taper, it might spread the clamping pressure of the jaws to a sufficient level.
Well, what do ya think? Am I full of sheep-dip? (I know y'all will be brutally honest.) Yes, I know I can get the 3 separate buffs from Beall and run them off the belt sander, or headstock, but I'd like the luxury of saving myself the change-outs.
Thanks for all past information, and I hope, future!
I've owned my VERY used ShopSmith for 10 years. It had no serial # plate, so I can't date it exactly, but it's a rough gray, so I'm guessing c. '84. It'd already been upgraded w/ polyV belt and dbl. bearing quill. My only eBay purchase, it was in GREAT shape, all specs. were w/in tolerances and greased to prevent rust. Included were the scroll and band saws, the belt sander, planer, and joiner. A slew of parts and all manuals, plus all orig. accessories and tools. As a hobby-guy, I make a variety of woodworking stuff (pens, cabinetry, furniture, crafts) and have no set schedule or production 'pressure'.
I've lurked and learned on this forum for years, and have recently been enjoying Nick's video productions (kudos to SS for hiring this VERY talented woodworker and teacher)! I also peruse other popular woodworking sites and subscribe to their mags, as well.
The Beall 3-On Mandrel Buffing System is a 3/4 inch steel mandrel with a #2 Morse taper-drive on one end and a cupped end on the other to accept a cone center. I bought one from WoodCraft (and can still return it) to see if I (or some of you) can figure how to SAFELY drive the thing on our SSmiths.
The ends are too large (5/8 inch) to put into the drill chuck, or I woulda already been polishing my fool head off. After chatting with SS tech support (very helpful in the past) and the folks at Beall, I understand there are no adapters available nor in R&D (no big surprise there...) I have not the tools to turn a half inch tenon on the morse taper end, but I could take it to a local machine shop to do that (pricey, tho).
I own a 4 jaw chuck (I'm starting to turn bowls) and I'm wondering what y'all think of this idea. I chuck the morse taper end into the jaws of the chuck using a leather or rubber 'liner'. This liner would prevent metal to metal contact (I don't wanna crack of goof-up any parts, certainly.) And, as the chuck will only grip a small section of the taper, it might spread the clamping pressure of the jaws to a sufficient level.
Well, what do ya think? Am I full of sheep-dip? (I know y'all will be brutally honest.) Yes, I know I can get the 3 separate buffs from Beall and run them off the belt sander, or headstock, but I'd like the luxury of saving myself the change-outs.
Thanks for all past information, and I hope, future!