AO Smith Motor Help on a 10er

[Olliew72]

I'm new to the world of Shopsmiths. I inherited a 10er for Christmas and I've been refurbishing it for the last few weeks. I took the AO Smith motor apart to put new bearings and a capacitor. I've got the new bearings on and the capacitor in place, but I'm having trouble putting the whole thing back together.

The spring loaded centrifugal switch is hitting the phenolic plate. I've taken it apart and put it back together a few times, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

I took a few pictures, if that helps. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

[Olliew72]

Hello again, I see that a few people have looked at this post, but no one's commented. I thought that maybe a video would help to convey the problem that I'm having.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61UtSLIFw4s[/youtube]

[dusty]

I am one of those have viewed this but have not commented. I try real hard to respond where I can be of some assistance. I try equally hard not to respond when I do not know what I am talking about.

Fear not, you will get assistance. You must be patient until someone who has been inside of an A.O. Smith checks in.

[JPG]

I have not been inside of mine, but offer the following:

First the switch actuating mechanism only pushes against the inner phenolic part when at rest, or start up/shut down. When 'running' it will be away from all that phenolic.

Now what 'may' be different from 'new' is the three pads may be worn so they allow the actuator to rub. Also the phenolic may be 'warped'.

What is unclear to me is whether the wear marks apparent in the video were there before you disassembled it. If so, you have done nothing wrong other than observing the rub. I did not 'see' the marks in the first pix.

Check the contacts and see if by 'raising' the stationary contact, the rub disappears since the actuator will be held away from the rub area by the movable part holding the actuator away further.

Sorry for the conjecture, but it the best I have without digging into my motor.

[Olliew72]

Thanks for giving some thoughts on this and it may help if I clarify.
First, there's a definite difference in the way it sounds when it spins than there was before disassembly.
Second, the wear marks weren't there, this is something new that I've caused.

I don't think that the felt is too worn, in fact it looks pretty good for its age.

It's almost like there should be a spring between the rear casting piece of the motor and the phenolic plate, but I know there wasn't one there when I took it apart. Maybe I'll add one anyway.

I know that it's hard to give advice on something like this on a forum, but I do appreciate the help.

[JPG]

Are you sure the new bearing is inserted all the way? Could the bearing be causing the shaft(and actuator) to be positioned further away from the phenolic stuff. That would allow the actuator to be more 'up' as you described in the video.

[Olliew72]

Hello again everyone,

I don't know what went wrong or how this all happened. I tried a few more things, but it was still hitting the phenolic board when the motor was at starting speed. So I got a piece of bailing wire and made the following "fix".

It limits how far the centrifugal switch can push this part down. Not elegant nor is it correct, but I put everything back together and it fired right up.

[JPG]

Hello again everyone,

I don't know what went wrong or how this all happened. I tried a few more things, but it was still hitting the phenolic board when the motor was at starting speed. So I got a piece of bailing wire and made the following "fix".

It limits how far the centrifugal switch can push this part down. Not elegant nor is it correct, but I put everything back together and it fired right up.

I assume you did not form(bend) the contacts so they provide a similar 'stop'.

May be more 'elegant' than the wire.

As long as the switch contacts are making all may be well, but the wire will limit the amount of contact wipe and may eventually cause the motor to fail to start(runs risk of burning out the run windings). If it ever fails to start(just hums and maybe trips a breaker) shut it off ASAP and . . . Well see above!
As long as the bailng wire 'behaves', leave it alone. Might want to consider the next time it is 'apart'.

[Olliew72]

So apparently I spoke too soon. I put the motor on and hooked up the newly refurbished speed changer to it and the headstock. I ran it for a few minutes and it started right up, but then it would make a wierd hitch sound occasionally. I just don't think that I've made the right fix. I'm going to take it in to a local motor shop tomorrow.

[JPG]

So apparently I spoke too soon. I put the motor on and hooked up the newly refurbished speed changer to it and the headstock. I ran it for a few minutes and it started right up, but then it would make a wierd hitch sound occasionally. I just don't think that I've made the right fix. I'm going to take it in to a local motor shop tomorrow.

Wish I could be there when they see the baling wire!