wood finish question

[rdewinter]

David Marks of "Woodworks" on the DIY channel uses tung oil as a finish on most of his projects. Anyone used or tried this finish? Pros or Cons? Durable? David just smears some tung oil on the wood and immediately wipes off with a rag. Does it apply and smooth out that easily or is that another great television trick? Does it compare to a polyurethane finish?
Your comments appreciated.

[8iowa]

I'm far from being an expert on finishes, but I believe there are tung oil finishes and tung oil - not necessarilly the same. I once finished a curly maple Kentucky rifle stock with tung oil and I had to apply a new coat and buff every day for a month before getting a uniform satin finish. Several years later I used Formby's tung oil and it virtually went on in one coat, like a varnish. It may be that some finishes advertised as tung oil are actually mixtures of tung oil and some type of varnish.

[Bruce]

I think 8iowa is correct. The label should state what percentage of tung oil is in the product. I don't have experience with the 'neat' stuff or the blends so I can't say which is better.

[paul269]

I believe there are three types of tung Oil. The pure tung oil is just that. Then there is a boiled form call polymerized and the third type is the tung oil finishes that you buy at home depot. Look at the label it probable says something like “contains tung oil.”

I have used tung oil on several past projects because I don’t care for the look of poly. Not only that but I believe water will not stain a tung oil finish like it will poly. And if your furniture becomes scratched and new coat of oil will fix the scratch assuming it does not go deep into the wood.

I love the stuff on oak as it creates that golden oak color no stain needed. Mix 1:2 oil and turpentine for your first coat. This thin coat will penetrate the wood better and you can apply 2-3 coats. Make sure it dries between coats. Then 2-3 coats with just the oil with no solvent. Again you can use several coats. Pure tung old will take a long time to dry depending on temperature and humidity. I use 0000 steel wool between coats. After the last coat is dry you can apply a Johnson’s past wax but you might consider what the piece is used for. If it is furniture that is not handled much I would go with the wax.

[curiousgeorge]

Does it compare to a polyurethane finish?

No. The Tung Oil will soak into the wood but doesn't give you the protection or hard surface build up of a poly finish. Each have their own advantages, depending on materials and end usage.
You might want to check out Michael Dresdner's site at:
http://michaeldresdner.com/

also http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=23046

[Nick]

For fine furniture, Drew and I use a tung-oil/spar urethane mix that Rudy Osolnik shared with me as I was writing my book on "Finishing." Rudy (now deceased) was a world-reknown turner and the head of the Wood Arts program at Berea College in Kentucky. Through experimentation, he had developed an easy-to-apply, durable finish that combined many of the benefits of a penetrating finish (like tung oil) and a building finish (like polyurethane). I explain it in http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... nishes.htm . Take a look.

With all good wishes,

[berry]

There are several extensive threads in Wood Magazines Finishing forum about Mr. Marks secret finishing formula. It's worth checking out.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/dgroups/ind ... 23f7400e3d

[Ed in Tampa]

There are several extensive threads in Wood Magazines Finishing forum about Mr. Marks secret finishing formula. It's worth checking out.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/dgroups/ind ... 23f7400e3d

I would take some of what is said in the woodmagazine forum with a grain of salt. It seems some people have an axe to grind to some degree.

I use Tung or Boiled Linseed oil mixed with poly a lot and I get the results I like. They are easy to fix should the finish get damaged in the future. They have extreme water resistance as well as other chemicals. They do not produce a high gloss finish and while easy to apply they require a fairly long time since I give each coat a full 24 hours to dry between coats.

However if you want a Rock Hard finish that can be buffed to a high gloss used Belhens Rock Hard Table Top. Check out a bar a guy on another forum built. http://www.swensonz.com/ and go to the gallery pictures. The Bar is a lodge bar that he built. Yes he is a pro. WOW!!!!!

[ericolson]

Actually, David Marks' tung oil finish isn't much of a secret. He buys it from Lee Valley. It's a tung oil and varnish blend. I've thought about buying a quart of it, but Formby's works just as well and is a little cheaper. I always apply with a lint free cloth and buff it in like I was waxing a car. I let the finish sit and dry for 24 hours, then wet sand it out using mineral spirits and an ultra fine sanding sponge (about 440 grit). I repeat this process four or five times. It doesn't give quite as much protection as straight poly, though. So, my final coats are hand rubbed bees wax, rubbed in with 0000 grit non-shedding steel wool with a final buff with a lambs wool pad. Gorgeous and plenty of renewable protection. Very time consuming, though. It's definitely not a process for someone with little patience.

[ctslacker]

Is this blend tough enough for kitchen cabinets?