Shopsmith Forums

While shopping for hand saws, I see more and more saws, particularly "Japanese" saws that cut only on the back stroke. I'm sure some of you are using these.

Is there an advantage to cutting only on the back stroke?

How long did it take to get accustomed to it, and to make an accurate cut?

Jim

Not hard to get used to as far as I'm concerned, and as far as accuracy, no better nor worse than push saws of similar quality.

They are called pull saws. I much prefer the traditional western push saw but with that said I have several of the Japanese saws and use them regularly. Much depends on the job at hand to determine which I choose. I do prefer to install my fret and coping saw blades to cut on the pull stroke most of the-time.

Because the saws cut on the pull stroke and are then in tension, the blades and kerf tend to be thinner. I like the pull saws that I've used, but my experience level very low, so take my opinions with a grain of salt.

Mike

How many times have you been using a "push" saw and the blade decides it wants to bend/kink on you? With a "pull" saw that doesn't happen unless you are pressing down hard on the clearing stroke out of habit from using a "push" saw.

Mike907 wrote:Because the saws cut on the pull stroke and are then in tension, the blades and kerf tend to be thinner. I like the pull saws that I've used, but my experience level very low, so take my opinions with a grain of salt.

Mike

Mike hit the nail on the head,with pull saws you can have a much thinner saw blade. This makes for a much cleaner cut, less waste(sawdust), and I believe more control.

the problem is keeping them sharp.
I have the tools and knowledge to sharped the push hand saws (both crosscut and rip) and circular saws. I have not sharpen a pull saw, because I do not have one.
My grandfather taught me many years ago. He made me level the blade first, then set the teeth, then sharpen them. If he was not happy how they cut, I had to do it all over again. A good sharpen saw will sing to you if you have it sharpen right.

lyall wrote:the problem is keeping them sharp.

The problem is I don't have the skill nor the equipment to sharpen my own. Plus doesn't seem to be any services around here for it either.

I don't have any expensive saws of either kind. A few years ago I bought a couple of Shark Saws from the clearance rack at sears. I never really used them until about a year ago. My first cut with one was a piece of 2x4 it was almost perfect square. I was hooked. Now when I need a hand saw these are the ones I go to. Mine have replaceable blades so I don't sharpen them.

I have both types, and use the pull saws mostly for cutting thin stock, like molding. Ed is right that the kerf is much smaller.

But when I started practicing making dovetails, I found that I had difficulty holding to a line with the pull saw. So I switched to a 20 tpi 'English-style' push saw and was surprised that it was easier for me to follow a line through end grain.

Probably just needed to practice with the pull saw but pressed on with the push saw.

My 2 pull saws have replaceable blades. I have found it much easier to damage the pull saw - a drawback of the thinnest I imagine.

Both still have use in my 'shop.'

Forrest