I have only done this about once and I don't have a picture. A lot of us have made new tool handles especially for chisels or files etc. Over the many years I have turned handles and looked for something to make a ferrule if the old one was gone. Lots of times I would cut off a piece of larger copper tubing and turn the handle to accept it as snug as I could make it. I have messed up one or two driving one on that was too tight.
The last one I turned to fit a 3/4 copper PEX crimp sleeve and made it a slip fit. Then I got out my PEX crimp tool and crimped it in place. Very easy. The trouble is my crimp tool was $100+ so that is kind of pricy for just repairing a few handles. Now though they have bolt tighten crimpers that are about $20 which brings it to a more reasonable level for non plumbers. Here is a crappy picture of one on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Nibco-Px02555-Blo ... B007764Q3C
If you are equipped for a little metal working it would be easy to drill through a steel plate about .50" thick and then saw the plate in half through the center of the hole and use a heavy vise to squeeze the ring in place. It doesn't have to be perfect, it won't leak...
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
I use short sections of copper plumbing pipe. Then, get the wood cut so the pipe fits on and epoxy the pipe onto the wood for a tight fit that never lets go.
Now though they have bolt tighten crimpers that are about $20 which brings it to a more reasonable level for non plumbers. Here is a crappy picture of one on Amazon.