Project that might push me to buy a panel saw (system)?

[reible]

I have three projects coming up this summer (I hope) that will require the use of expensive plywood and the cutting of said plywood. No idea if I will really be up to the projects but if I am then I think I might want to spend some cash to get a nicer set up then I now have for the effort. I would be cutting up more plywood then I have in the last 10 years for just one of the projects. Thus I can justify (to myself) spending some amount of money.

I'm thinking a plunge cutting saw and track system. I'm also limited by budget so a certain Germany company is not in the running unless they adopt a better price structure.

This leaves me with several ways to go that should still get me to where I want to be in the end. Gathering information leads me to believe that the
Makita SP6000J1 6-1/2-Inch Plunge Circular Saw with Guide Rail might be good enough. (think about $500 range)

Anyone here own one and care to comment?

Compelling reason to look at a different combo?

Pretty early stage on this so other options might be considered.

Ed

[algale]

I don't own and haven't used one so my opinion is worth zip, but I recall reading a good review of the Dewalt track saw. I think it might be in your price range.

[benush26]

Hey Ed,
I know this is going to sound way off the wall (and it sort of is), however after much research I've opted for a router rather than a saw. My project (if I ever get my friggin garage back ) is a walnut bookcase floor to ceiling by 12' 7", 14" deep. Most all of it is walnut veneer. I finally figured I would use a clamping straight edge system (Rocklers or similar) with a router bit cutting to exact width. No cutting down to rough size and then to finished. It may be sheer and complete folly, but I can buy a whole lot of really nice straight cut 1/2" router bits for $300 ($500 minus the cost of the clamping track - same monetary limit as I imposed upon myself - we MUST have GREAT minds!)

A friend has that German system you spoke of and really likes it, however I sometimes think that those that have the green German tools over justify their greatness to justify the price.

However... if pressed I would choose the Makita over the DeWalt because I like how the system feels. I think it's a bit less in cost, too at $385. For something in the $400 range I'd go with the Triton but that is a strong bias because I truly like my Triton router (disclaimer!-never had played with the Triton saw, though)

There is another German competitor out there but the name escapes me (dang chemo brain!!) as far as I could remember from the demo, they were touting their systems as as good as the green German team but 20% cheaper.

Have fun checking out all the systems!!!

Be well,
Ben

[dusty]

The only track saw experience that I have is with a home brew arrangement. Mine works fine as long as I am not cutting the long way on sheet goods. Point being, a track system is nice for sheet work. I just don't do enough of it to justify the expense; I certainly could not justify a green one.

I did a significant amount of work with sheet goods on the RV restoration. I turned to a router for much of that but there too it would have been nice to have a track system.

[claimdude]

I have the "green" kind of plunge saw with rails and a CT22 vac. Outstanding for breaking down plywood panels accurately, in other words, cut once and use in assembly, not cut with plunge then re-cut on Mark V. I have had the system for 8 to 10 years without a hiccup. The DeWalt and Makita versions are spoken well of. I have seen no good reviews on the Grizzly version.

Jack
PPro and a bunch of other stuff including a number of "green" tools.

[letterk]

I have the Dewalt system with both lengths of tracks. Got a really good deal on it when Amazon bought some supply company several years back. For breaking down sheets goods there is nothing easier. You just set it on the measure marks and cut. The built in Riving knive and the dust collection are great. I wouldn't say it gives you perfect tear out free cuts, but it is pretty decent.

I tried using those panel clamps and I either pushed on them too much and shifted them, or locked them down too tight leaving permanent ridges in the metal locking rods in the clamps.

[masonsailor2]

How many sheets are we talking Ed ? If you are going to be cutting up a large number of sheets one option is you may be able to find a supplier that will deliver half sheets. If it's a high dollar order they will either do it for free or a minimal charge. If you can work out the cut list to work with 4x4 foot and 2x8 foot pieces it will make the job a lot easier. From there you can use the table saw to deal with the 4x4 stock and a sled for the 2x8 stock. As far as track systems I have the "green" version stashed somewhere but only used it a few times. I could never get an acceptable cut with it and the clamping system is woefully inadequate. I use a cut off shoe made from 1/4 and 1/2" ply combined with a Skil worm drive and a Freud blade that gives me excellent results. I use an 8 foot and a five foot version with two c clamps.
Paul

[charlese]

I like masonsailor2's answer. Rather than spend a few hundred bucks on a panel saw - get smaller material delivered to you. This way, all you will need is a buddy to help carry the pieces into your shop to then use your existing equipment.

I know you are good at making jigs.
Save some bucks and go the other way. And for Heaven's Sake be careful with your recovery.

Best Wishes!

[roy_okc]

Ed,

I have a few of the EurekaZone tracksaw components, 3 or 4 years of experience, and highly recommend you take a look. There are a couple accessories, besides the track, that can really be useful in breaking down a sheet of plywood quickly, safely, and without breaking your back. The Ultimate Edge Guide (UEG) is fantastic for straight line ripping. The B-300 bridge system, mounted to whatever support bench you want, is awesome for cross cutting (or ripping shorter pieces); this was the thing that ultimately allowed me to stop using my Ryobi table saw. There are various other accessories that make quick work of repetitive sized ripping or crosscutting (if you aren't using the UEG or bridge w/stops), also some material support systems that a lot of people really like. The biggest advantage of the EZ track, to me, is the ability to accessorize it and modify its uses, create your own jigs/tools, etc.

I started with a ~$75 Ryobi 7-1/4" circular saw and Freud Diablo blades and got much better and cleaner rips and crosscuts than the tablesaw. I later bought a Makita 5008MGA (8-1/4, blade brake) to allow cutting clear through 2X lumber under track (the typical 7-1/4 blades are a bit undersized by the time you add the saw base and track, making cuts around 1/16 or 1/8" shy). I actually prefer the Ryobi a bit, especially for up to 3/4" stock, due to it being lighter. I've ripped 3/4"x4"x8' oak using track clamped to the board and came away with near glue-joint ready quality. I've also diagonally ripped 1x2x~5 or 6' on the narrow side (shimming around an old window in old house). If I need more depth of cut, I can go a wee bit larger: [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXV2XJTwn9Y[/youtube] using the same track and accessories. Or I could use a battery powered trim saw, if I had one, for lighter jobs.

Suggest you head over to http://www.tracksawforum.com to see what people have made using the tools, how they are using them, etc. It does take some study to figure out how to accomplish some of the tasks using the EZ tools versus tablesaw, but some time there will help shorten the learning curve. There is at least one professional cabinet maker (Burt) who eventually replaced all his cabinet grade tablesaws with EZ systems.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Roy

[jsburger]

The green one from Germany. Can you say Festool? There I said it.

Of course you could spend a little money on your Shopsmith and do the same thing.