Shopsmith Forums

I searched but found only one reference, and that did not sound like the poster was sure they had the right answer... The Mothership said no lubrication is needed, even though I stated I was talking about metal-to-metal with a greenie spline. I figure I should ask here to be sure.

Graphite? Does graphite provide long lasting lubrication for parts that see a lot of movement? The quill won't move in and out all that much but with vibrations etc. it seems I should consider it more likely to shrug off graphite than, say, the way tube locks or a door lock, but I don't know.

Dry spray lube? I've never purchased any so I don't know its characteristics. I assume they all use silicone and so require not being stupid and spraying with the quill shaft resting on a waiting for finishing piece of wood.

Lightly greased? Lightly oiled? Spit & Earwax emulsion?

Thanks

The Mark 5 manual does not mention lubricating the splines. On the other hand the lubrication instructions for the 10er which has a similarly splined shaft are:

LUBRICATION-To maintain quiet and smooth spindle and
quill operation, regularly place a few drops of medium-
weight machine oil on the outside of the quill. Extend the
quill its full length and force a small amount of cup grease
into the splined section of the spindle and drive shaft.
Release the quill and work it back and forth to distribute
the lubricant evenly. Headstock “chatter” can nearly al-
ways be eliminated by greasing the spline.

so a bit of grease on the splines probably wouldn't hurt.

Make sure the drive sleeve and splined shaft are mating steel to steel. Then wheel bearing grease will do. I use lithium grease.

If the drive sleeve 'couples' through a nylon coupler, do not grease. Do not confuse the greenie nylon dust cap for a coupler.

Odd, I don't see my earlier reply...
Thanks to both of you. I didn't think to check 10er instructions. Hmm, that sounds like a reason I should get myself one.

Good point about the dust cap, that had me confused a while back. This is definitely metal to metal. I would have just put some grease on it and assumed it was fine without asking if I hadn't just seen how much crud got past the shields in the drive shaft bearings over the past 60-some years (no s# plate to check actual year)

Thanks again.