Shopsmith Forums

I posted some pics on May 29 of my completed 10er. It runs smooth and I put a Freud 8 inch finshing cut blade on it. The table is aligned and works good. I don't like sticking the fence out on the tiny table as I could not get it aligned just right and its not so sturdy. Any ideas on making this better and safer as a table saw? I am missing the rear hold down part for the fence. What about adding a second table and carriage keeping them clamped together when needed? That would give you a table about 28 inches wide...Ideas?
Thanks!

robster wrote:I posted some pics on May 29 of my completed 10er. It runs smooth and I put a Freud 8 inch finshing cut blade on it. The table is aligned and works good. I don't like sticking the fence out on the tiny table as I could not get it aligned just right and its not so sturdy. Any ideas on making this better and safer as a table saw? I am missing the rear hold down part for the fence. What about adding a second table and carriage keeping them clamped together when needed? That would give you a table about 28 inches wide...Ideas?
Thanks!

I do not see the rip fence in the may 29 pix.

Is it possible you have a 10E fence rather than a 10ER fence?

oops you are correct, the fence is NOT in the picture. The tightening knob sticks straight back not downward as in some I have seen. I am missing the rear part that locks the back down. I did some cutting this morning, just some thin masonite. This thing is quiet!

robster wrote:oops you are correct, the fence is NOT in the picture. The tightening knob sticks straight back not downward as in some I have seen. I am missing the rear part that locks the back down. I did some cutting this morning, just some thin masonite. This thing is quiet!

Both the 10E and the 10ER had straight knobs(the slant knob was a later 'improvement' that wasn't so).

A 10E fence has large screws on top that secure the fence to the base and nothing at the back. The 10ER with straight knob has the screws accessible from the bottom and has a small clamp at the rear with a separate knob.

robster wrote:I posted some pics on May 29 of my completed 10er. It runs smooth and I put a Freud 8 inch finshing cut blade on it. The table is aligned and works good. I don't like sticking the fence out on the tiny table as I could not get it aligned just right and its not so sturdy. Any ideas on making this better and safer as a table saw? I am missing the rear hold down part for the fence. What about adding a second table and carriage keeping them clamped together when needed? That would give you a table about 28 inches wide...Ideas?
Thanks!

The early fences did not have the rear clamp. Magna did make a retro fit rear clamp but they are rare.
Skip Campbell, MKC Tools, makes a rear clamp for the early fences. http://mkctools.com/10erearfenceclamp.htm

Thanks for the info. My fence has the two bolts on the bottom of the fence. It has the hole in the back of the fence for the lock but it was missing when I got it. I do have the correct knob for the lock, just no lock. Will have to get one. Will play with it some more this weekend. I did find a pic here of a guy who put two tables on his but not like I was thinking. I was thinking of them butted up to each other on the right side to increase rip capacity safely.
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/248

I have yet to do an alignment of the rip fence on the extension table of my 10er so I don't know how hard that might be but it something I will look into as it seems like it would be pretty critical to have it lined up.

Again I assume that the main table can be slid up against the extension to aide in the process, yes no??? Well it is something I will face at some point so I hope we have some good discussions on it here.

Ed

robster wrote:Thanks for the info. My fence has the two bolts on the bottom of the fence. It has the hole in the back of the fence for the lock but it was missing when I got it. I do have the correct knob for the lock, just no lock. Will have to get one. Will play with it some more this weekend. I did find a pic here of a guy who put two tables on his but not like I was thinking. I was thinking of them butted up to each other on the right side to increase rip capacity safely.
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/248

The missing part is basically a u-shaped piece with a tapped hole on the top end and a 'hook' on the lower end. Should be fairly easy to make.

reible wrote:I have yet to do an alignment of the rip fence on the extension table of my 10er so I don't know how hard that might be but it something I will look into as it seems like it would be pretty critical to have it lined up.

Again I assume that the main table can be slid up against the extension to aide in the process, yes no??? Well it is something I will face at some point so I hope we have some good discussions on it here.

Ed

I have not tried, but the 'rails' are basically flat bar stock. The aux table is mounted on two screws similar to the Mark 5(4 screws).

I think it possible to get the two rails aligned to allow bridging with the fence. The stud/extra nuts&washers should also be possible. There is no way to adjust for side tilt, but all mating surfaces are machined.