Shopsmith Forums

Hi,

I'm posted these modifications before but it has been a while and I'm revisiting this since my son picked up a 500 and we are getting it ready for operation.

The extension table as it came from the factory used cap screws and the adjustment was done using various thickness of washers as shims. Later with the introduction of more modern machines they converted to using studs and that was at least in my eyes a major improvement. It was also something I could adapt to my older system.

In the past I was buying a length of threaded rod then cutting it in to sections to make the studs. Yes you can buy automotive studs that would work but that is both overkill and expensive.

While hardware shopping at a Lowe's store I came across both 6" and 3" sections of threaded rod (3/8-16). The 3" sections are almost ideal for this and priced at $.68 ea for an investment of $2.72 for the 4 of them.
I've given my son my upgraded wide extension table and so I had to dig out my old hardware collection to find a thin table and some legs. So I figured that I would post the process here for those that might be interested.

As I mentioned I got the studs/threaded rod at Lowe's it is Hillman so other places might carry it as well. If nothing else you still can get a length and cut it into 3" segments. The nuts and washers I had in my collection but they shouldn't cost too much if you don't. You will need a wrench but that is about it for the tools.
You can double up two nuts to allow you to tighten the stud into the top. Don't over do it!
Next a washer and nut, that will make it so the studs do not come loose when you are doing the adjustments.
When you have those nuts tight then add another nut to each stud followed by a washer.
At this point the legs are put on.

followed by another washer and another nut.
You are now the proud owner of an easily adjustable extension table for your 500.

Hope this was helpful to a few of you.

Ed

That is exactly how I did mine many years ago. Probably the day after I saw the Shopsmith design.

That's exactly the way I did mine, too. Probably the day that I read reible original post on this subject. I try to copy a lot of things that reible does.

dusty wrote:That's exactly the way I did mine, too. Probably the day that I read reible original post on this subject. I try to copy a lot of things that reible does.

Me too! As well as some things others have posted.

Thank You ALL!

Same here. I had some unused Nylok nuts that found a new home on the Table side of the threaded rods, but that's just because I had them. This threaded rod modification works very well.

Very useful information . I just got a new Mark 7 (x-mas gift) and the main table needs shims. I think I will go this route instead.

hdoilcan wrote:Very useful information . I just got a new Mark 7 (x-mas gift) and the main table needs shims. I think I will go this route instead.

Whether the main table needs shims has nothing to do with aux table adjustment.

However if not, this will align the aux to the main table.



P.S. I use headed screws(no need for continuous threaded rod nor cutting the heads off).

JPG wrote:

hdoilcan wrote:Very useful information . I just got a new Mark 7 (x-mas gift) and the main table needs shims. I think I will go this route instead.

Whether the main table needs shims has nothing to do with aux table adjustment.

However if not, this will align the aux to the main table.



P.S. I use headed screws(no need for continuous threaded rod nor cutting the heads off).

Thanks for pointing that out to me. I was assuming the main table attached the same way as the aux table. I just checked the way the main table is connected and see the difference.

FYI I like the threaded rods and will continue to use them. If I ever have to remove the top the nuts and washers stay where they are and the nuts and lower washers can be removed. Replacement is then pretty well established with the parts that remain on the studs. But again you can do as you like. The cost difference is not something that justifies bolts over studs and the convenience out ways that for me.

BTW all the newer shopsmiths have the studs already in use so this applies only to the older ones that do not.

Ed

JPG wrote:

hdoilcan wrote:Very useful information . I just got a new Mark 7 (x-mas gift) and the main table needs shims. I think I will go this route instead.

Whether the main table needs shims has nothing to do with aux table adjustment.

However if not, this will align the aux to the main table.



P.S. I use headed screws(no need for continuous threaded rod nor cutting the heads off).