Today in the shop (500 ext. table conversion to studs)

[hdoilcan]

I noticed that and I think that's why I was assuming the main table was the same.

BTW all the newer shopsmiths have the studs already in use so this applies only to the older ones that do not.

Ed

Very useful information . I just got a new Mark 7 (x-mas gift) and the main table needs shims. I think I will go this route instead.

Whether the main table needs shims has nothing to do with aux table adjustment.

However if not, this will align the aux to the main table.



P.S. I use headed screws(no need for continuous threaded rod nor cutting the heads off).

[JPG]

Oh I agree with all that, but, I do not intend to ever 'remove' the table from them, although it is still possible.

Screws do eliminate the need to 'cut' studs to length.

[reible]

Oh I agree with all that, but, I do not intend to ever 'remove' the table from them, although it is still possible.

Screws do eliminate the need to 'cut' studs to length.

I did once post instructions on how to cut threaded rod to length but this post describes buying them already cut, which is why this is the way I now go. I have seen the cut lengths at various stores which makes it super easy to buy them and use them.

Ed

[edma194]

Opening this old thread to see if anyone as successfully add studs or tapped the untapped holes in floating tables? Studs would be a good solution, if I can find the right size and don't have problems driving them in. I think that's a big if and tapping the holes will probably work better.

I want to get all my tables set up for this so I can mount sets of floating tables and extension tables together on two lengths of drilled angle iron so they'll be in alignment without relying on 510 connecting tubes. I can also make more extension tables using the legs from 500 extension tables that I don't have much use for.

[DLB]

I have done this, we are talking 510 and on tables, right? I noted that the holes are tapered a bit, and also a bit over-sized. But they are deep and seem to have plenty of thread for the purpose. I first tried with threaded rod, mine did not work because the rod was slightly under-sized - pairs badly with over-size holes. I switched to bolts with the heads cut off. In hindsight, I could have left the heads on. It's my opinion that the factory studs are not traditional threaded studs as I was unable to remove them.

- David

[edma194]

I have done this, we are talking 510 and on tables, right? I noted that the holes are tapered a bit, and also a bit over-sized. But they are deep and seem to have plenty of thread for the purpose. I first tried with threaded rod, mine did not work because the rod was slightly under-sized - pairs badly with over-size holes. I switched to bolts with the heads cut off. In hindsight, I could have left the heads on. It's my opinion that the factory studs are not traditional threaded studs as I was unable to remove them.

- David

Did you tap the holes? Sounds like you drove bolts directly into the untapped hole. For my intent I'd have to cut the heads off bolts for a floating table but it makes sense to have a bolt head to drive in the bolt.

[DLB]

I have done this, we are talking 510 and on tables, right? I noted that the holes are tapered a bit, and also a bit over-sized. But they are deep and seem to have plenty of thread for the purpose. I first tried with threaded rod, mine did not work because the rod was slightly under-sized - pairs badly with over-size holes. I switched to bolts with the heads cut off. In hindsight, I could have left the heads on. It's my opinion that the factory studs are not traditional threaded studs as I was unable to remove them.

- David

Did you tap the holes? Sounds like you drove bolts directly into the untapped hole. For my intent I'd have to cut the heads off bolts for a floating table but it makes sense to have a bolt head to drive in the bolt.

Yes, I tapped the holes. I did not 'finish' them with a bottoming tap because I didn't have one. I cut the heads off first and used a nut with a jam nut, but this is something that makes little to no difference. I saw that someone (jpg?) used carriage bolts and left the heads on.

- David

[edma194]

Yes, I tapped the holes. I did not 'finish' them with a bottoming tap because I didn't have one. I cut the heads off first and used a nut with a jam nut, but this is something that makes little to no difference. I saw that someone (jpg?) used carriage bolts and left the heads on.

- David

Thanks, Using bolts makes sense, although I don't understand why use carriage bolts. I'd use a hex bolt that's easy to drive in and out by the head.

[chapmanruss]

Ed,

You said,

I want to get all my tables set up for this so I can mount sets of floating tables and extension tables together on two lengths of drilled angle iron so they'll be in alignment without relying on 510 connecting tubes. I can also make more extension tables using the legs from 500 extension tables that I don't have much use for.

Attaching the Floating Tables to the Extension Table with angle iron will limit setup possibilities by having them in a "fixed" position instead of being able to have the Floating Tables positioned where needed for a particular setup. Is the possible gain in alignment worth the loss of flexibility? As I have said in other threads, I have never used a Mark V as a 510 so I don't know how much of a problem alignment is for the 510 Floating Tables.

I do understand the desire to have an additional Extension Table available. I have an extra Extension Table for the Mark 7 that goes on the left side for support besides the original one for the right side. Handy in some setups and the Extension Tables can be aligned for the Ends they are used on. That goes back to a different alignment thread.

[dusty]

I occasionally feel the need to align the tables. This is a seldom occurrence but when it happens I lay all of the tables upside down on my work bench, loosen all the screws so that the rails move freely on the tables. I then install long table tubes into the rails and secure then (with the tables all pushed together side-by-side). Using a piece of rectangular bar stock (could be done with a piece of wood), I position the rails and secure asll of the bolts and nuts that tie the tables to the rails.

If the table legs on the Main Table were not moved - the task is complete.

Extension Tables can be included . If so, the nuts on those need to be loosened to and they need to be tightened only after being installed back on the Shopsmith along with the Main Table.

I don't use Shopsmith Table Tubes for this though. I have two 8' thick walled aluminum tubes that I bought from Metals Depot. Near perfectly straight.