Shopsmith Forums

For all the experienced out there. What's the "best" but reasonably I inexpensive finish for stuff like wood tomato cages, garden items getting a lot of water, sun, water....
I can't seem to get it right. Everything looks like junk after 1 season.

Matt
I don't know if this is true or not but a friend of mine said that outdoor paint with UV inhibitors is good. Further, if you want a clear finish he said to use the paint base that is clear because the UV protection is contained in the base not in the pigment. Some paint base is tinted white so don't use that kind.
Another thing is that the fast growth trees have growth rings that are so wide that rain can still get into the pores and push any type of protectant off the wood. But there is always the Trex material
Bill V

moggymatt wrote:For all the experienced out there. What's the "best" but reasonably I inexpensive finish for stuff like wood tomato cages, garden items getting a lot of water, sun, water....
I can't seem to get it right. Everything looks like junk after 1 season.

You mean you are not using junk wood to begin with?

i.e. furring strips?

Another reason to use white oak for these boxes. The pores are already plugged by tylosis during growth of the tree.

Years ago I build a wood mail box, in fact I built a number of wood mail boxes. I used all forms of chemistry and alchemy to preserve the wood in Florida Sun. Today I have a Plastic Mail box painted with the new fusion paint. It seems even plastic breaks down but the paint seems to stop that.

I tried oils, stains, paints, UV blockers, varnish, ship varnish, poly, urethane, complex oils, mixtures. I didn't want to block the ability to see the wood but learned short of doing that what ever I did would last about 6 months and need re-coated or refinished. If the sun did not eat it up the mold fungi and rest of delightful things Florida environment produces would.

I use steel coated plastic tomato cages. The poles are about 8 feet high and they have plastic snap on connectors that let you shape the cages into whatever you want.

Oh did I mention almost any wood stuck in the ground in Florida will be devoured by termites within 6 months. They are even working on the swing support that is setting on concrete pads. Two of the legs came into contact with soil and you could almost hear the dinner bell as the termites immediately seized upon the meal. Poisoned their tiny butts

I have not had great luck with wood no matter what the finish. My best luck has been with tinted deck stains with mildew inhibitors, but it still needs to be done every 3-5 years to keep it looking decent.

I've used Behr's premium (the semi transparent) with some success, but have still had peeling especially near the ends of cut wood. I think it's too pricey for what it does so this year I'll just go back to Minwax spar varnish knowing it's only there for a couple seasons at best.

One thing I might have done wrong with the Behr's is paint it too thick. I read somewhere that peeling is often caused by that (or very often by bad prep)

Where it didn't peel its held up fine.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Be well,
Ben

Years ago, there was an article in Fine Woodworking with a formula for an outdoor finish. It was one quart of exterior spar varnish mixed with one gallon of mineral spirits and then two ounces of shaved paraffin wax are dissolved in the mix. You can also add tinting colors, if you like. Apply the finish, and after it has dried, a layer of wax remains on the surface. When it needs refinishing, just reapply. The new finish will dissolve any remaining wax, soak in, and leave a new layer of wax. I have used this finish on my deck several times, and I think it works better than the commercial deck finishes.

Mike