Shopsmith Forums

Good Afternoon friends!

I am struggling ripping 8/4 purple heart and 8/4 hard rock maple on my shopsmith. The blade even quit moving on my once. I purchased a new blade that I am going go try tonight, but what are some other options to ensure a better, smoother cut. Speed increase/decrease?

I appreciate any and all suggestions!

Thanks all and Happy Monday!

nhelsinger wrote:Good Afternoon friends!

I am struggling ripping 8/4 purple heart and 8/4 hard rock maple on my shopsmith. The blade even quit moving on my once. I purchased a new blade that I am going go try tonight, but what are some other options to ensure a better, smoother cut. Speed increase/decrease?

I appreciate any and all suggestions!

Thanks all and Happy Monday!

I am far from an expert, but slow down the speed. The way the variable sheave system on a Mark V works is like a transmission and slower means a mechanical advantage to the motor. Remember to feed the wood slower ...

JMHO

Thank you for your response, I will give that a try, I was speeding up, very well could be my problem....along with an old blade. I typically run a 10inch blade, anyone see a problem with that blade size?

Check your alignment (rip fence to blade). If alignment is proper, slow the blade a few letters below saw speed which will give you more torque.

nhelsinger wrote:Thank you for your response, I will give that a try, I was speeding up, very well could be my problem....along with an old blade. I typically run a 10inch blade, anyone see a problem with that blade size?

+1 on rjent's analysis/advice. Blade diameter can be compensated for with the variable speed. But if the blade is old, it may also be dull.

Everything else being equal, a thin-kerf blade requires proportionally less power than a standard blade. 3/32:1/8 = 3:4.

If you think ripping purple heart is tough, wait to you cross cut it. Watch for splintering!

Although I don't know a thing about purple heart, I copied this from "The Wood Database". Seems to affirm the above recommendations.

"Workability: Working with Purpleheart can present some unique challenges: if the wood is heated with dull tools, or if cutter speeds are too high, Purpleheart will exude a gummy resin that can clog tools and complicate the machining process. Depending on the grain orientation, can be difficult to plane without tearout. Purpleheart also has a moderate dulling effect on cutters."

I have not cut purple heart but, I have cut 8/4 hard maple with no problem. I agree with what everyone else has said. A good sharp blade goes without saying. I use a carbide Forrest Woodworker II. Also slowing down the speed for more torque helps. I go down to the low end of the saw range or slightly below. Speed is not a problem with the Power Pro. Last is the feed rate. It must be slower. My guess is you will see a big difference with a new blade unless you have a fence alignment issue.

I have cut 8/4 hard maple on my 3 HP Powermatic PM2000 with the same Forrest blade and to be honest the extra 2 HP does not make much difference. The feed rate on both machines is about the same.

You might want to clean your blade before continuing. Woods high in oil can make a new sharp blade quickly react as if it was old and dull.

Cocobolo is notorious for being high in oil (even higher than purpleheart). I generally cut it on the bandsaw if plausible where I can slow the blade speed and easily clean the blade after a few cuts. If your only choice is the table saw, then the motto slow speed slow feed is appropriate.

Be well,
Ben

Thank you all for your feedback! The new blade, I purchased a Diablo for a quick fix, and slowing down the speed did wonders! Cut through like butter! I am in a crunch for time finishing up a wedding gift. Any good reviews on this blade over a forrester?

Also, any suggestions on how to maintain your saw blade. Can you resharpen?