Belt Sander

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billmayo
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Re: Belt Sander

Post by billmayo »

Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.
GeorgeM
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Re: Belt Sander

Post by GeorgeM »

billmayo wrote:Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.
Thanks Bill

Now Nick says not to mess with the tensioning spring or the unit will have to be shipped to the factory as we in the field do not have the tools to put it back into the drum. Or are you referring to a different spring?

Thanks
GeorgeM
GeorgeM
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Re: Belt Sander

Post by GeorgeM »

JPG wrote:Courtesy of Reible
belt sander tension adj.jpg
Now that is a helpful sticker. I wish it was on my belt sander. Would you mind telling me where you found it?

Thanks
GeorgeM
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JPG
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Re: Belt Sander

Post by JPG »

GeorgeM wrote:
JPG wrote:Courtesy of Reible
belt sander tension adj.jpg
Now that is a helpful sticker. I wish it was on my belt sander. Would you mind telling me where you found it?

Thanks
GeorgeM
"Standard issue". Inside the back side of the backup plate.

I have used lithium grease, but do not know about long term effect.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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billmayo
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Re: Belt Sander

Post by billmayo »

GeorgeM wrote:
billmayo wrote:Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.
Thanks Bill

Now Nick says not to mess with the tensioning spring or the unit will have to be shipped to the factory as we in the field do not have the tools to put it back into the drum. Or are you referring to a different spring?

Thanks
GeorgeM
I did not find removing the tension spring any more difficult than rebuilding the headstock. Actually easier then installing the control sheave bearing. You must keep track of where the washers, roll pins, shims and cams are located and their ordination. Taking or drawing pictures is what I do. The cams can be installed backward if you did not note their high point to the key way. There is a prior picture I posted of the idler drum shaft with the spring loose inside the shaft. I used a screw in the end of spring holder (its threaded) to pull the spring out to where the roll pin can be removed or installed. Different length roll pin in each end of the spring. I find the grease harden like JB Weld in the spring and takes some effort to remove this harden grease. Wire brush and solvent is what I use.
GeorgeM
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Posts: 150
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:58 am
Location: Rochester, NY

Re: Belt Sander

Post by GeorgeM »

billmayo wrote:
GeorgeM wrote:
billmayo wrote:Yes, I believe you will have to disassemble the belt sander. You will need to remove the spring from the idler drum shaft and clean the spring of all the harden grease. You may want to take pictures at each step as some parts can be installed in the wrong way. This is why I have been installing a zerk grease fitting in the idler drum for many years so the idler drum can be greased at least yearly. I use a 14 ox cartridge of Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Marine Grease for all my grease needs. I found this was the best grease I had used even before I begin to install a zerk fitting. It does not appear to harden over time.
Thanks Bill

Now Nick says not to mess with the tensioning spring or the unit will have to be shipped to the factory as we in the field do not have the tools to put it back into the drum. Or are you referring to a different spring?

Thanks
GeorgeM
I did not find removing the tension spring any more difficult than rebuilding the headstock. Actually easier then installing the control sheave bearing. You must keep track of where the washers, roll pins, shims and cams are located and their ordination. Taking or drawing pictures is what I do. The cams can be installed backward if you did not note their high point to the key way. There is a prior picture I posted of the idler drum shaft with the spring loose inside the shaft. I used a screw in the end of spring holder (its threaded) to pull the spring out to where the roll pin can be removed or installed. Different length roll pin in each end of the spring. I find the grease harden like JB Weld in the spring and takes some effort to remove this harden grease. Wire brush and solvent is what I use.
I wonder why Nick says it can't be done in the field.....

GeorgeM
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JPG
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Re: Belt Sander

Post by JPG »

GeorgeM wrote: . . .

I wonder why Nick says it can't be done in the field.....

GeorgeM
There is a difference between can not and not recommended. There are several actions that SS considers beyond the typical owners ability.

Many here are not 'typical'. :D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
tucsonguy
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Re: Belt Sander

Post by tucsonguy »

This is quite an old post, but I thought I would add a youtube video I did recently showing the complete disassembly of the belt sander including the upper drum assembly. The upper drum is easily taken apart needing no special tools except a cheap gear puller and a 10-24 or 10-32 screw (sorry, can't remember which), nut and washer, to thread into the spring and pull it out so as to re-insert the roll pin. This is not a complicated process and certainly not requiring shipping to the factory.

https://youtu.be/vyAqXFSBm7o
Geoff Baker
1951 10ER w variable speed electronic motor with reverse
1999 520 w PowerPro
Belt sander - strip sander - bandsaw - scrollsaw - jointer - overarm router - undertable router mounted on main SS saw table - speed increaser - speed reducer - forced air HEPA filter for headstock - 19" SS powered aluminum drum sander - index wheel system - lathe table crossslide vise system
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