PowerPro Upgrade, 2015
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 2:29 pm
There have been many posts over the last several years concerning the PowerPro but I would like to share my recent experience upgrading my 510 with the upgrade kit. This is a long post but I hope it will be of interest for those contemplating a DIY upgrade.
My first Shopsmith purchase was for a used "Greenie" in 1985 which I restored but eventually replaced the headstock with a brand new one and upgraded to a 510 table system in 1990. All that remains of the Greenie is the bench which I have repainted to match the headstock. I used that configuration until this year when I made the 520 and PowerPro upgrades. That upgrade adventure started in early April when I made the initial purchase at a Lowe's demo event. I was initially told there would be a 6 week delay due to a supply problem. That delay grew to 8 weeks and then 12 weeks until I finally received the upgrade kit package last week.
After its arrival I spent the first 1/2 day watching the video and getting everything ready in the shop to start the upgrade. Bright and early the next day I began. The disassembly of the 510 went very well and within an hour or so I had removed everything except the headstock wedge lock. Dealing with driving out the roll pin in the handle took me another hour. I am sure it was just my inexperience and not having the proper tools but I found it to be a real bear. I finally ended up using an old broken 1/8" bit to knock it out after trying different punches I had on hand. Machining the new holes came next which went very well. The templates and drill bits provided in the kit were top notch. The exception was the hole in the motor pan that needs to be enlarged but I was ready with a unibit having been forewarned by previous forum posts. Shopsmith should really update the instructions, using a file for this is like using scissors to cut your lawn.
Next came installing the new quill and drive sleeve which went very smoothly, I didn't have as much trouble with the retaining ring as anticipated. Next were the Idler shaft and eccentric bushing. A couple of things to watch for here. First there is a set screw in the bushing and when you mount it, it might slip into a notch on the headstock which will let the bushing go in a little too far. I also missed the step to ensure the bushing notch where the set screw is was set at the 9 o'clock position or I would have caught the issue right away. Everything will appear to be fine and it will even run but when you try to balance the belt tensions you will have to backtrack to properly adjust the bushing. It is also very easy to mount the poly belt one ring off center on both the drive sleeve and the Idler shaft. This is a small error that won't be discovered until you start wondering why things get so hot after running for a short time. If I had it to do over again after installing each major component I would have re-watched the video for the next step. Instead I relied on the written instructions and due to the poor quality of the black and white pictures and their attempt to cover 3 different headstock configurations in each step I missed a few things. At least that is my excuse. Wiring up the switch and installing the power supply is straightforward and went smoothly. Next was installing the headstock wedge lock and my old friend the roll pin. I struggled with getting the holes to line up and driving the roll pin back in that probably cost me another hour. Unbelievable how a simple task like this can cause such aggravation.
Next up is the motor. I put the headstock back on the bench tubes and raised it to the drill press position. As instructed I mounted to table on the opposite side of the headstock to support the motor install. I didn't even realize the table could be put in from the bottom of the carriage but it can. I think this can potentially be a dangerous issue. With the table mounted on the opposite side of the carriage while in the drill press position creates some large moment arms. The arm lock is the only thing that maintains the vertical position of the headstock. The motor is one heavy mother and when I lifted it up on to the table everything wavered a bit. Then I realized the giant guillotine I had just built. I got some wood braces under the table and tightened the arm lock as much as I could. Then I was comfortable to proceed but Shopsmith should really change the instructions before someone gets hurt.
I hooked up the motor wires and pushed the motor into place. Two aluminum motor mounts on each side of the motor is how the motor attaches to the headstock with six 1/4-28 machine screws. I found that two of the threaded holes on one of the motor mounts would not allow the screws to go all the way in. I had to take the motor mount off and re-tap the two holes. Since I did not have a 1/4-28 tap I had to go to the local store to get it. The whole episode probably cost me a couple of hours.
Next issue was getting all the holes lined up on motor mount and headstock so the screws can be put in without cross threading them in the soft aluminum mounts. Contrary to the supplied instructions this is what worked for me. After putting in the top two screws on each side, swing the motor up to attach the belt to the idler shaft. Same alignment issue here, take care that the poly belt is in the proper rings on the Idler shaft. Then loosen all the screws in the motor mount assemblies allowing you to easily drive and tighten all six screws that hold the mounts to the headstock. Now tension the belt using the adjusting screws on the motor mounts. I used setup blocks to ensure the mounts on each side of the motor were spaced evenly. For me it worked out to 3/16". I got much better results with this method as opposed to trying to count the number of turns on the set screws.
Now to try running the PowerPro for the first time. I had a little issue because I missed the warning concerning GCI receptacles. After popping the GCI breaker several times I finally found the warning and got things running on a different non GCI receptacle. All was fine and I tried to adjust the eccentric bushing to balance the belt tensions. After I corrected my bushing issue discussed earlier I found little change over a full range of 180 degrees of bushing position. I had no knocking sounds at all but a small but persistent chattering of the drive sleeve and quill assemblies at 3450 RPM. I finally set the bushing where it was easiest to turn at the 10 o'clock position. The belt tensions appeared to be equal when physically inspected.
I was concerned about the chattering in the drive sleeve and quill assemblies but decided to put the motor pan and belt cover on to complete the upgrade process. Total time for me was about 12 hours but there were a lot of distractions in there. I feel confident I could do it in 4 hours if I had to do it again.
The chattering was not bad but was most noticeable at 3450 RPM. At lower RPMs I got some vibration in the quill particularly when extending it and at higher RPMs the chattering pretty much went away. Then I tried putting a saw blade on the spindle and to my surprise the chattering completely disappeared. At lower RPMs I put a sanding disc on and the quill vibration disappeared. Even the drill chuck calmed the vibration. I have a call into Shopsmith service but they have not called me back yet. I think this chattering issue is due to the electronic motor control but will be interested in what Shopsmith service says.
I will continue to put the PowerPro through some more testing and report back later.
My first Shopsmith purchase was for a used "Greenie" in 1985 which I restored but eventually replaced the headstock with a brand new one and upgraded to a 510 table system in 1990. All that remains of the Greenie is the bench which I have repainted to match the headstock. I used that configuration until this year when I made the 520 and PowerPro upgrades. That upgrade adventure started in early April when I made the initial purchase at a Lowe's demo event. I was initially told there would be a 6 week delay due to a supply problem. That delay grew to 8 weeks and then 12 weeks until I finally received the upgrade kit package last week.
After its arrival I spent the first 1/2 day watching the video and getting everything ready in the shop to start the upgrade. Bright and early the next day I began. The disassembly of the 510 went very well and within an hour or so I had removed everything except the headstock wedge lock. Dealing with driving out the roll pin in the handle took me another hour. I am sure it was just my inexperience and not having the proper tools but I found it to be a real bear. I finally ended up using an old broken 1/8" bit to knock it out after trying different punches I had on hand. Machining the new holes came next which went very well. The templates and drill bits provided in the kit were top notch. The exception was the hole in the motor pan that needs to be enlarged but I was ready with a unibit having been forewarned by previous forum posts. Shopsmith should really update the instructions, using a file for this is like using scissors to cut your lawn.
Next came installing the new quill and drive sleeve which went very smoothly, I didn't have as much trouble with the retaining ring as anticipated. Next were the Idler shaft and eccentric bushing. A couple of things to watch for here. First there is a set screw in the bushing and when you mount it, it might slip into a notch on the headstock which will let the bushing go in a little too far. I also missed the step to ensure the bushing notch where the set screw is was set at the 9 o'clock position or I would have caught the issue right away. Everything will appear to be fine and it will even run but when you try to balance the belt tensions you will have to backtrack to properly adjust the bushing. It is also very easy to mount the poly belt one ring off center on both the drive sleeve and the Idler shaft. This is a small error that won't be discovered until you start wondering why things get so hot after running for a short time. If I had it to do over again after installing each major component I would have re-watched the video for the next step. Instead I relied on the written instructions and due to the poor quality of the black and white pictures and their attempt to cover 3 different headstock configurations in each step I missed a few things. At least that is my excuse. Wiring up the switch and installing the power supply is straightforward and went smoothly. Next was installing the headstock wedge lock and my old friend the roll pin. I struggled with getting the holes to line up and driving the roll pin back in that probably cost me another hour. Unbelievable how a simple task like this can cause such aggravation.
Next up is the motor. I put the headstock back on the bench tubes and raised it to the drill press position. As instructed I mounted to table on the opposite side of the headstock to support the motor install. I didn't even realize the table could be put in from the bottom of the carriage but it can. I think this can potentially be a dangerous issue. With the table mounted on the opposite side of the carriage while in the drill press position creates some large moment arms. The arm lock is the only thing that maintains the vertical position of the headstock. The motor is one heavy mother and when I lifted it up on to the table everything wavered a bit. Then I realized the giant guillotine I had just built. I got some wood braces under the table and tightened the arm lock as much as I could. Then I was comfortable to proceed but Shopsmith should really change the instructions before someone gets hurt.
I hooked up the motor wires and pushed the motor into place. Two aluminum motor mounts on each side of the motor is how the motor attaches to the headstock with six 1/4-28 machine screws. I found that two of the threaded holes on one of the motor mounts would not allow the screws to go all the way in. I had to take the motor mount off and re-tap the two holes. Since I did not have a 1/4-28 tap I had to go to the local store to get it. The whole episode probably cost me a couple of hours.
Next issue was getting all the holes lined up on motor mount and headstock so the screws can be put in without cross threading them in the soft aluminum mounts. Contrary to the supplied instructions this is what worked for me. After putting in the top two screws on each side, swing the motor up to attach the belt to the idler shaft. Same alignment issue here, take care that the poly belt is in the proper rings on the Idler shaft. Then loosen all the screws in the motor mount assemblies allowing you to easily drive and tighten all six screws that hold the mounts to the headstock. Now tension the belt using the adjusting screws on the motor mounts. I used setup blocks to ensure the mounts on each side of the motor were spaced evenly. For me it worked out to 3/16". I got much better results with this method as opposed to trying to count the number of turns on the set screws.
Now to try running the PowerPro for the first time. I had a little issue because I missed the warning concerning GCI receptacles. After popping the GCI breaker several times I finally found the warning and got things running on a different non GCI receptacle. All was fine and I tried to adjust the eccentric bushing to balance the belt tensions. After I corrected my bushing issue discussed earlier I found little change over a full range of 180 degrees of bushing position. I had no knocking sounds at all but a small but persistent chattering of the drive sleeve and quill assemblies at 3450 RPM. I finally set the bushing where it was easiest to turn at the 10 o'clock position. The belt tensions appeared to be equal when physically inspected.
I was concerned about the chattering in the drive sleeve and quill assemblies but decided to put the motor pan and belt cover on to complete the upgrade process. Total time for me was about 12 hours but there were a lot of distractions in there. I feel confident I could do it in 4 hours if I had to do it again.
The chattering was not bad but was most noticeable at 3450 RPM. At lower RPMs I got some vibration in the quill particularly when extending it and at higher RPMs the chattering pretty much went away. Then I tried putting a saw blade on the spindle and to my surprise the chattering completely disappeared. At lower RPMs I put a sanding disc on and the quill vibration disappeared. Even the drill chuck calmed the vibration. I have a call into Shopsmith service but they have not called me back yet. I think this chattering issue is due to the electronic motor control but will be interested in what Shopsmith service says.
I will continue to put the PowerPro through some more testing and report back later.
