Shopsmith Forums

I am in the process of rebuilding my 3 headstocks. I was surprised to see the rust caused by the dust build up in the pans, as well as what happend to a headstock when it is not maintained. I encourage you to start a preventive maintenance routine and keep your headstocks both clean and lubricated.

I have found 5 types of bearings used in my headstocks:
6002Z and 6003Z are in my double bearing quills, 6202Z in my single bearing quill, 6205ZZC3 are the drive sleeve bearings, and as far as I know, 6203ZZC3 are the motor bearings.

I found Shopsmith sells the drive sleeve bearings (501297) for $5.21 a piece. I believe the single bearing quill bearing is p/n 502962, but I'm not positive, goes for $3.77.

I found a mother load of bearings at http://www.vxb.com. Anyone ever heard of them or have their own recommendations? They have angular bearings capable of speeds up to 27,000 rpm for $6-7. These bearings look to be better than Shopsmith; however, being I have no spec on the Shopsmith bearings, I will refrain from saying anything except they are reasonably priced- $5.21 for the drive sleeve bearings ain't bad.

I have found all kinds. As a kid working in a roller rink, we used Fafnir as the best sealed bearings for roller skating wheels- almost 40 years ago.

Well, to properly remove/install bearings, one needs a good press. I noticed Harbor Freight has a 12-ton orange model for $114.29. They sell a separator kit for $49.99 or large & small separators for around $30. Anyone have any experience with these?

Tony

backhertz wrote:...Well, to properly remove/install bearings, one needs a good press. I noticed Harbor Freight has a 12-ton orange model for $114.29. They sell a separator kit for $49.99 or large & small separators for around $30. Anyone have any experience with these?

Tony

Tony
I think saying "GOOD" and "Harbor Freight" in the same paragraph is a problem.
It may be a lot cheaper, more cost effective and with less hair pulling if you take your project to a machine shop and have them press the bearings rather than deal with Harbor Freight anything.
I have a Harbor Freight near me and I'm a tool shopper. I can tell you this with a fair amount of certainity if it is a name brand or of equal quality as the common name brand product it will cost more at Harbor Freight. If costs less then the quality is at the same ratio as the price to a known quality product.

In other words you get exactly what you paid. If it is cheaper then the product's quality is cheaper. If you paid more you just got ripped off.

Since I only buy cheap Shopsmiths, almost all the motor pans and belt housings are rusted on the inside or if I find a customers headstock with the same problem, I normally spray Rustoleum Rust Reformatter paint on the inside. It seems to stop any further rusting in my headstocks.

I like to use higher quality bearings in my repairs/rebuilds. Fafnir is my preferred manufactury. I use the 202KDD5 "C1" in place of the 6202-RS-5/8", the 205KLL2 (C3) in place of the 6205-2RS. I only use "C3" rated bearings now. I too have brought bearings from VXB for many years. An excellant company.

I use an older model Harbor Freight BEARING SEPARATOR AND PULLER SET Pittsburgh 93980-1VGA for $49.99, on sale for $29.95 sometimes. I have and still use it to remove and install Shopsmith bearings for many years without a hydranic press. I find for installing bearings, if you put the shaft in the freezer for a couple hours and the bearing in the sun, then I don't need much force, if any, to install the bearing. Same for installing the Drive Sleeve Assy. I put the assy. with bearings in a zip lock bag in the freezer for a hour or two, the headstock in the sun, then the assy will install quite easy in the headstock. I never like to use force to install any bearing and never any pressure on the balls.

[quote="backhertz"]I am in the process of rebuilding my 3 headstocks. I was surprised to see the rust caused by the dust build up in the pans, as well as what happend to a headstock when it is not maintained. I encourage you to start a preventive maintenance routine and keep your headstocks both clean and lubricated.

I have found 5 types of bearings used in my headstocks:
6002Z and 6003Z are in my double bearing quills, 6202Z in my single bearing quill, 6205ZZC3 are the drive sleeve bearings, and as far as I know, 6203ZZC3 are the motor bearings.

I found Shopsmith sells the drive sleeve bearings (501297) for $5.21 a piece. I believe the single bearing quill bearing is p/n 502962, but I'm not positive, goes for $3.77.

I found a mother load of bearings at http://www.vxb.com. Anyone ever heard of them or have their own recommendations? They have angular bearings capable of speeds up to 27,000 rpm for $6-7. These bearings look to be better than Shopsmith]

On such a simple mechanical device, I can say from experience that a HF press will work quite well. It is in the homemade jigs for it that one finds the proof in the pudding. I have very few econo tools but have been satisfied with these types of items from Harbor Freight.my

Ed in Tampa wrote:Tony
I think saying "GOOD" and "Harbor Freight" in the same paragraph is a problem..................

IMHO it is an oxymoron. Not just in the same paragragh, but even on the same page. If I could find similar product that was made ANYWHERE else but China, I would buy IT instead.

I never like to use force to install any bearing and never any pressure on the balls.

You definitely don't want pressure on the balls.

Well, I'll admit it! I asked for and get weekly e-mail savings coupons from Harbor freight. Seems funny, but I'm waiting for a savings coupon for their smallest bottle jack. I'll use it for a table hoist when using the OPR. It's only around $10, but I'll wait until it is available for $7.

One of the handiest tools (when needed) in my shop is a rolling table with a hydraulic scissors jack. It is presently being used to lift and move my project tables around while attaching tops and shelves. Various heights are really helpful.. also moving out of the way without lifting (and striking a corner on something metal). The table is from HF. ($99) It'll lift 500 lbs, but cannot envision it will ever be strained.

A couple of weeks ago, ran across a coupon for 6" hand screws. Can never have enough camps, so I got the maximum the coupon allowed. Six hand screws at $1.99 each. At home they wouldn't screw, but a couple drops of oil fixed them. They now function as well as any of the more expensive clamps. They are certainly not made of maple, but good enough for 6 inchers.

I know you can use the Harbor freight bearing separator kit (93980-1VGA) to remove bearings but how would you use it to install a bearing?

bucksaw wrote:I know you can use the Harbor freight bearing separator kit (93980-1VGA) to remove bearings but how would you use it to install a bearing?

The HF kit comes with extensions that I use. You just start the bearing on the shaft. I mount a collar half in my metal vise. Then place the collar's flat side againest the out side of the bearing. Always put the pressure on the inner race, not the outter race. I have the puller lead screw againest the other end of the shaft. This may take some effort to get the drive sleeve assy centered. Then slowly pull the bearing onto the shaft making sure the bearing does not tilt at any time until it seats. I had used the HF kit for many years until I could afford better equipment last year. The lead screw has held up really well over several hundred uses.

Tony,

I have a 12 ton press from Cummings tools. I used it, along with a bearing seperator from Santa Fe tools, to replace the bearings on my 4" Jointer. the combo worked very well.

I'm thinking that all the presses in the 12 ton range will be of similar construction. As far as quality, I can only comment on the press that I have, but the one I saw in HF sure looked the same.